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I am redoing our kitchen lighting. We currently have 1 fluorescent light fixture in the center with 2 T8 bulbs (ugly but a lot of light) and one decorative light fixture over the sink.

I am going to install recessed LED lighting and 2 pendant lights over the island. The switch controlling the light over the sink will end up controlling the pendant lights over the island, necessitating a longer wire run to get to the island. My plan is to install a junction box on the joist in the ceiling above the sink in order to splice in a longer wire run. The original light fixture below the junction box will be replaced with a recessed light (housing with built in junction box). This will make the junction box accessible by removing the recessed light housing. To me, this is equivalent to having the junction boxes for the recessed lights being "accessible" by removing the housing which makes them up to code.

Will this work code wise, and are there any better ways to extend the wiring to the island. (it's only going to be about 4 feet).

Would this product be an acceptable alternative, since it is still accessible by removing the recessed light housing?

http://www.te.com/catalog/cinf/en/c/11621/0?BML=10576,17560,17685&RQS=C~11621

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  • The product you linked to meets the requirements of NEC sections 545, 550, and 551. Which are sections for manufactured homes, mobile homes, and recreational vehicles. Your best bet is to call the local inspector, and ask them if they'll approve what you propose.
    – Tester101
    Commented Oct 10, 2014 at 20:43

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Since the same switch will control the light over the sink (which you are swapping to a recessed light) and the lights over the island, this is easy.

When you add the wire for the island lights, use the junction box on the new recessed light can for the make up. This is no different then connecting multiple recessed light cans together.

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If the inspector doesn’t approve it, the only option would be to flush mount that junction box with a blank cover

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