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I have been having a hard time figuring this out through looking at US NEC code and online sources. I am adding LED strip light fixtures/luminaires to a closet (hanging it directly above the door frame or on the ceiling depending on how things go). It will be installed in accordance with code being at least 12" from "closet space"). The fixture is similar to this. Instructions are also similar to this

Am I able to run standard NM 2-wire + ground cabling directly into the light fixture through one of the integrated knockouts and splice inside the fixture's housing? I would install NM push-in connectors in the light fixture knockout so it will hold the Romex in place.

I've seen fluorescent t8 fixtures wired in this way where the light fixture itself was considered the junction box. However, the LED light fixture's instructions show a junction box being used with a plate between it and the light fixture. The plate has a center knockout that the wire is run through and then passes through the light fixture knockout. The wires are all spliced within the light fixture according to the instructions. The junction box will be larger than light fixture so I'd prefer to not have to use one. Further, since the splices are still in the light fixture, the junction box adds no real safety in my opinion besides some extra measure of safe area that the Romex could be tugged into and protect surrounding areas from shorts/fires. Thoughts?

  • NEC allows for the mfg instructions to be used, I reviewed those in my answer, right in the add your fixture states plug in or direct wire, for those that need a code reference see 110.3.B listed equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling. ,, This means if the instructions are in violation of part of the code the instructions must be followed not the code! – Ed Beal Jun 2 at 18:19
  • To clarify for some discussion below, the light fixture I bought is UL listed and I got it at the big box store from the link. The one I bought looks slightly different but appears to be the same model or maybe a newer revision of it. – crchurchey Jun 2 at 19:16
  • OP you are confusing everyone with the write up to your question. The type of light you are linking to would NOT have knockouts. The power cable supplied would be a cable that plugged into end or a power cable without a plug on the end for direct wiring to JB. NO transformer is needed, it is 120V power. So you would need to add a JB in the ceiling to do either, plug or direct wire. – Programmer66 Jun 2 at 23:10
  • It absolutely does have knockouts on the backside of it and the instructions mention direct-wiring through the knockout. You can wire it either way; there are existing hot, neutral, and ground wires inside the assembly that can be stripped and used for direct wire if you choose that route. Yes it can be wired using a cord to plug into an outlet as well but that is not the way I'm trying to install it. I'll add a link to the instructions so you can see what I'm talking about. – crchurchey Jun 3 at 2:18
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The electrical connections in the box the Cable protected with the plastic clamp sounds like you have it covered no box is needed when the fixture has one.

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I think I understand what you're doing, and correct me if I'm wrong:

  1. You have a 120V NM wire that is switched.
  2. You need to put it into a junction box to make a connection.
  3. The Fluorescent Lights previously had that direct connection inside the fixture, but the LED lights don't.

Yep, welcome to Hell.

You're going to need something like this: https://www.trcelectronics.com/View/TRC/TRC-E-LPV203560.shtml (and this place is the cheapest to get it, too).

In order to comply with code you must separate the high and low voltage portions of the circuit. There is a clever little light switch that does it (gladiator carries it) but it's also nearly 200$.

So you wire in your NM high voltage into one side, secure it, wire nut the AC/DC adapter, then attach your LED wiring on the other side.

Code compliant, separated high and low voltage, and mountable up near the top where it's out of sight.

If that isn't the idea you're talking about, I apologize.

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    You need to read the MFG instructions , it clearly states plug in or direct wire! as I stated in my answer. They do not need anything but a clamp to protect the wire coming in the fixture And the push connectors or wire nuts. – Ed Beal Jun 2 at 18:05
  • OP says "Similar To", not "Identical To". Don't get pissy. OP didn't say he bought that fixture, and for all I know he bought a knockoff from Aliexpress/Ebay that isn't UL rated. Based on the description, assuming a junction box between the two was the safest point. – J.Hirsch Jun 2 at 19:09
  • Your answer is off base for many reasons , a cheap 4square box cover would be what an electrician would if separation is needed but a “solution” that cost 200$ is just rediclous! – Ed Beal Jun 2 at 20:13
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    Sorry, this is a miss. Way too many assumptions made about OP, too little reading of OP, and too few follow-up questions asked. This is not a low voltage system. But it would be a good answer to a different question... – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jun 3 at 1:55
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    OP here. Yes this is a 120V 15A circuit powered light fixture. It is able to connec to an outlet via a cord plugged into an end OR via direct-wire through a knockout in the back of it. I updated my original post with a link to instructions. You DO have access to the inside of the light fixture where you can make standard 120V connections with NM-2 cable and wire nuts. – crchurchey Jun 3 at 2:24

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