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See photo. A few of my studs hang over my top/bottom plates by about 1/16th of an inch. Will this be a problem when I go to drywall? Should I glue some drywall shims to those deeper areas before putting up the drywall?

I'll be using 5/8 thickness drywall.

see photo below

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    1/16 not much. I would just be careful to not screw the drywall down tight to the plate. It is more important to have all the studs making a straight edge along the wall, one stud in and one stud out is not good.
    – crip659
    Commented Mar 25 at 18:17
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    IME if whatever's behind that house-wrap looking stuff is soft enough, just smash the stud flush with a hammer. If it's not soft, pop the stud part way out and notch it with a sawzall. It'll help avoid drywall defects.
    – nmr
    Commented Mar 25 at 18:24
  • I checked for crown on all of the studs while laying out my frames. All of my crowns are facing out / drywall side.
    – dudewheresmybasement
    Commented Mar 25 at 20:56

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Drywall does not make contact with every piece of framing behind it firmly. Crews that do drywall have their screw guns with the right torque for the screw to go in and fasten to the wood, not pull the drywall to the wood. So yes most fasteners will have the drywall tight to the framing but not all.

You also need to think that not every piece of lumber is straight. So your wall will have very slight waves because of this. I strictly have my guys frame with the bowing going outward. Drywall is pretty flexible to account for this.

That being said I don't like lips on the bottom and top plates. This is because while drywall is flexible it is a bit to ask for drywall to flex a lot in just 2" span. Yes you could easily screw it in without overfastening and leave it straight but that is a bit of an art.

The other issue with the bottom plate is the installation of trim. Screwing and more than likely nailing into the bottom plate will be more difficult with a gap.

Your framing looks a lot like the framing I get from most of my crews. I would normally spend 5-10 mins at the end going through rooms with my mallet (hammers dent and splinter easier) and tap things flush and draw big blue lines where we need blocking in the corners to hang drywall.

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  • What my dad called a mistake hammer.
    – crip659
    Commented Mar 25 at 18:44
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    @crip659 - honestly started using a mallet because when I used a hammer I swung harder and often popped framing too far the other way or knocked it loose. Not sure where I found the little 5 pound mallet I have but have used it for 20 years. Most of the time it doesn't leave a mark and it is much nicer to the wood. And my drywall guys are really really good... they would have no issues installing on something like this. I would be more worried about what is going on top of the drywall.
    – DMoore
    Commented Mar 25 at 18:51
  • Good answer. Do you prefer crown to the exterior in a kitchen with base cabs? I’m partial to crown inwards so the cabs aren’t as gappy in obvious spots.
    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    Commented Mar 25 at 19:51
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    @AloysiusDefenestrate - good catch. crown out is just for drywall. For concrete board or something like cabinets we put the crown in (but for those types of rooms we look for really really straight boards too).
    – DMoore
    Commented Mar 26 at 2:08

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