I want to build interior wall which should go along trusses and studs. I need to install 72 inch French doors in the middle of the wall, so I need to support the wall from top and bottom. I can drill holes in the tile and slab to support bottom 2x4 , but I'm not sure how to secure the wall from the ceiling.

I was thinking that I would connect trusses with a few 2x4s and screw the wall to those 2x4s, and same between 2 studs. but I'm not sure if that's correct approach.

How can I build that wall?

The wall I want to build is blue one on the picture. There are no trusses right above that wall. The nearest truss is located around 10 inches to the side. Also there are no studs on the wall to connect a new wall to (nearest stud is around 10 inches to the side).

There is no attic above, there is a 2nd floor above.

I want to build the wall but it won't be supported by a truss from the top and by the stud from 1 of the walls (2nd wall has the stud at the exact position I need).

Picture of the trusses above drywall
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  • I read your edit and think "so what". You still install blocking as per your accepted answer. The only difference is that you cut back drywall to expose the trusses/studs on either side of the new wall, install blocking, install the new wall, then fix the drywall. Just make sure you include nailers for the drywall where the new corners (both wall and ceiling) are, otherwise, you'll have drywall flapping in the breeze. No, a corner bead and drywall mud isn't sufficient to hold it in place.
    – FreeMan
    Jan 18 at 13:56
  • I suppose you could pull up the floor above, but frankly, fixing drywall seems like a much easier option...
    – FreeMan
    Jan 18 at 13:57

1 Answer 1


You are correct: blocking is installed at intervals between the studs/trusses on either side, and the new wall framing is attached to the blocking.

  • I've heard that I can't attach anything to trusses. Or this is an exception?
    – Rainmaker
    Jan 9 at 4:24
  • 1
    @Rainmaker, hanging stuff from trusses could be a problem. They tend to get built with exactly the required strength, so technically added load can easily push them out of conformance. But blocking between bottom truss chords is perfectly normal. From IRC R602.10.8.2, for instance, note the "Where required by this section, blocking between rafters or roof trusses shall be attached to top plates of braced wall panels and to rafters and roof trusses in accordance with Table R602.3(1)."
    – popham
    Jan 9 at 10:19
  • @popham Don't we add extra load to trusses when we connect the wall (which will have french door on it) to the blocking? Since blocking connects trusses, it should split the load between them, right?
    – Rainmaker
    Jan 9 at 15:33
  • @Rainmaker, go in the attic and look at the detail implemented by the framers for that wall stub in line with your wall. Copy their detail. If you see a gap and clips, you'll want to look into strongtie.com/trussclips_platedtrussconnectors/tc_roofclips/p/…. Gap and no clips? They might have used something like strongtie.com/strongdrive_interiorwoodscrews/sdpw_screw/p/…. For drywall with a gap, check into strongtie.com/miscellaneousconnectors_woodconnectors/ds_stop/p/…. You'll probably just find blocking, though.
    – popham
    Jan 9 at 22:35
  • @popham sorry for the late response and thanks for the info. I can't fin't en example of how to do truss blocking correctly. Should I just drill throgh the truss and put a screw to another 2x4(blocking) ? or use connectors? Maybe there are some resources?
    – Rainmaker
    Jan 18 at 3:44

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