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I've watched a number of videos on YT about mounting cabinets on a concrete wall. All of them suggest mounting a wood strip of some kind first and then mounting the cabinet to the strip. My question is: what's the point of the strip? Why lose 3/4 of an inch (in one video, 1.5".) Why not screw through the solid part of the cabinet to begin with?

Two follow-up questions in the wake of the definitive response by @manassehkatz.

  1. Is plywood a good option (or, perhaps, two strips of 3/4 plywood)?
  2. Is using some kind of adhesive between the wood and concrete a good idea?
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  • If you mount directly, then you'll want an initial, adjustable mount so you can position things perfectly before installing your fasteners. An oversized hole, concrete anchor, and plate washer are my first instinct.
    – popham
    Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 22:55
  • Google french cleat. It's more than just a plain strip Commented Nov 1, 2023 at 21:50

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When you mount things on wood (plywood over concrete/brick/block/etc. or into studs):

  • You can remove and replace easily. If you want to replace in the exact same spot, use a slightly larger screw than the original and it will be very secure. If you want to replace in a different location, no problem at all.
  • You can add things in multiple places, such as right next to another cabinet, with very little working space needed.
  • You can often drive the screws in without any pilot holes. If you do want to have pilot holes, you can drill them straight through the cabinet (or other item) so there are no alignment issues.

When you mount things directly on concrete/brick/block/etc., you lose all those advantages. If you mount wood to the wall first, which does not normally need particular alignment and is easier than mounting cabinets (because it is a thin sheet rather than a big box) you bring back all of the advantages of mounting things into wood, and in fact have more flexibility than with a drywall over studs (which is why plywood is often the solution for mounting TVs on drywall over stud walls).

This is the usual solution not only for cabinets but also for:

  • Circuit Breaker Panels and related equipment
  • Computer networking, telephone and similar equipment

An extra step, but once it is done the rest is much easier.

As discussed in comments, and hinted at in the original post, for some things 3/4" may not be quite enough and you can double up 3/4" to get 1-1/2", which will let you use long enough screws to hold just about anything safely.

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    The holes holding the concrete anchors must match exactly where you put the screws into the cabinet. With wood backing who cares.
    – crip659
    Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 21:38
  • 2
    @crip659 That's what I meant by "there are no alignment issues" Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 21:42
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    Agree 100%. My only question, though, is a 3/4" piece of plywood, necessitating 3/4" screws enough to hold up a kitchen cabinet loaded with plates & glasses or canned goods? I'd be more than a bit nervous about that...
    – FreeMan
    Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 22:08
  • @FreeMan For TV, network equipment, etc. a single 3/4" should be fine. For my breaker panel, my electrician had me get 2 pieces of 3/4" - since I needed basically 2' x 4' I got a 4'x8'x3/4" and had Home Depot cut into 4 x 2'x4' and I have 2 on the wall behind the breaker panel and two for...the next project... So that is one solution - gives you 1.5" of support, which is plenty for kitchen cabinets or just about anything. Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 22:45
  • Yeah, I'd trust a 2x4 mounted flat or 2 @ 3/4" to hold a cabinet, but only 1 @ 3/4" seems borderline at best.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Oct 31, 2023 at 23:44

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