Is this pull up bar installation on concrete safe enough?

Question

Yesterday I mounted, on a solid concrete wall, a pull up gym bar that looks identical to this one:

After a lot of thinking I decided to attach it using a resin anchor from a local hardware store. I drilled 4 holes into the solid concrete, 80 millimeters deep and with a diameter of 1cm. I then cleaned and vacuumed the holes carefully and proceeded to inject the resin anchor inside the hole, after discarding the first 10 centimeters of product in order to allow it to mix properly. I then inserted an M8 threaded bar in each hole with a circular motion and left it to cure for 24 hours.

Today I fastened the pull-up gym bar onto the threaded rods with 4 nuts and started exercising. At first glance I must say that it feels very solid (I weight 65 kilograms, and the bar itself weights 10 kilograms).

However I'm now feeling a bit paranoid as I'm realizing that this installation is quite different from the usual stuff I did, since there is a lot of intermittent dynamic loads while I'm exercising. Also, I've read stories of people getting hurt after pull-up bar failures.

Do you think that the aforementioned installation with 4 M8 threaded rods, 80mm deep, is safe enough, or should I have used thicker bars and/or deeper holes?

Thank you in advance

Answer 1

I would be paranoid with that installation too. It's the resin that would scare me. The M8 rods would be OK if you drilled through the concrete and used washers and nuts on both ends. If drilling through the wall isn't an option, I'd be using 2" lag shields and 3/8" lag screws.

Answer 2

"There are lots of benefits of using chemical resin anchors as they are more than capable of holding massive loads and their application can be fairly quick. However, correct preparation for fitting chemical resin anchors is essential...

Chemical Resin Anchors: When To Use Them?

In short: If you did it properly, then it is proper and strong. If you are questioning the instructions you followed, then see the details in the link.

The link contains a lot of detail, but links tend to go bad, so here is a near-direct extraction...

1. Drill holes of the proper size.
2. Remove loose material from the hole to get the best hold against a debris-free surface. Use a resin hole brush to do this. Also use a tube to blow air into the hole to get rid of more debris.
3. Using an applicator gun, inject the resin into the hole. It is important to make sure it’s mixing properly before you inject it into the holes. It’s advised to let some out first to allow it to mix. Always ensure that the nozzle width and length are correct, and make sure to slowly withdraw the nozzle, so trapped air pockets don’t happen. For deeper holes use a resin nozzle extension tube on the end of a mixer nozzle.
4. As you push the stud in the hole, twist it a few times to break any air bubbles up. It also pushes the resin into any voids in the hole. If the stud keeps pushing itself back out it may need a few more twists. All the threads should have an even covering. Add more resin if needed.
5. Once all the studs are in, you’ll have to leave them alone. How long this takes will depend on the brand of resin as well as the temperature. Resin tubes will have a guide on the label: a gel time and full cure time. Don’t put loadings on the studs until the full cure time.