I have a very thin wall, about 2 inches thick. See photo below.
(This is the podium at a historic chapel.)
The wall might be solid wood? I'm not certain.

enter image description here

There is a crawl-space underneath the sub-floor, so it is very easy to gain access underneath for wiring and jack installation.

We need to install a power outlet AND an HDMI jack here.

Obviously, the easiest solution is to just put the jacks in the floor, facing upwards.
The problem is, this is an area with high foot-traffic.
The jacks WILL get stepped on regularly, which can a) break the jacks and b) become a serious trip-hazard, even when nothing is plugged in.

So we'd like to see if there is any possible way we could drill into this thin wood wall, and install the jacks in the wall, with the cables running immediately downwards into the crawlspace below.

Right-angle HDMI adapters are readily available, but we obviously need to avoid the extra connection if possible (to preserve a higher-quality signal).

enter image description here

Is it possible to get female HDMI cable ends with right-angles AND the ability to crimp onto your own loose cable and install into a faceplate?
I haven't been able to find any on Google, as of yet - but I don't really know where to look.

And then there's also the power outlet.
Most power outlets are too thick to fit inside such a thin wall.
Is there a way to get power outlets that are designed for extremely thin wall spaces?
I'd like to avoid having a box sticking out of the wall, again, because of trip hazards.
(Also because it's ugly.)

  • 1
    Look for shallow electric box, they are about an inch and a quarter deep. Historic chapel, thinking that might be more solid wood than hollow.
    – crip659
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 0:28
  • @crip659 It definitely feels like solid wood. The chapel is 90+ years old. Thanks for the tip, I'll dig around on that.
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 0:30
  • 4
    "to preserve a higher-quality signal" - HDMI is a digital interface, a connector either won't degrade the signal, or would have to be so bad as to not work at all, with no in-between. There is good reason to avoid a 90° adapter with respect to rigidity, but signal quality is not a required consideration. Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 1:08
  • 2
    Why do you need the HDMI outlet there? Are you planning to install a TV display or monitor?
    – SteveSh
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 12:49
  • 2
    You're going to need another connection there no matter what -- terminating HDMI cables by hand is nearly impossible, and even if you can manage it, it's definitely gonna degrade the signal more than a right angle adapter would. The tolerances are just too tight to make hand assembly a good option.
    – Nate S.
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 23:39

5 Answers 5


If you have access under the wall, could you put a brass floor plate on the floor and eliminate the hassle of the wall?

If you installed something like this, it could be flush with the carpet. You could easily plug in when needed and not worry about it being a tripping hazard.

brass floor plate

  • 1
    I was initially very opposed to this, but I'm starting to slowly warm up to the idea. Is it possible or practical to get floor plates that allow a scrap of carpet to be glued to the top, like a camouflage trap door, to make it invisible when not in use?
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 18:04
  • 4
    There's floor boxes that can contain power, XLR, HDMI, basically everything you might need and be flush with the carpet and give yourself another access point for those things. Less cables to run, less hassles. Good luck.
    – gwally
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 19:38
  • 5
    Yes, there are some that let you conceal better with carpet - they're nearly identical to the rest except they have a slight recess on the top for the carpet to sit in. For example, fullcompass.com/prod/… (I am not affiliated with nor do I recommend this model, just found it with a quick search to use as an example) Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 19:46


This premise is flawed.

but we obviously need to avoid the extra connection if possible (to preserve a higher-quality signal).

All cables are subject to a minimum bend radius. If you cannot maintain this and end up kinking the cable then you should replace the cable although technically if the cable still works then just use it; it's a digital signal not analog so the signal will either work or not work, period.

From https://www.cmd-ltd.com/advice-centre/usb-chargers-and-power-modules/safety-regulations-and-troubleshooting/hdmi/:

it is recommended that a minimum bend radius of 25mm is applied during installation.

Right angle adapters do not degrade quality as long as they are specc'd for the same HDMI version as your cable. If you're running HDMI 2.1 and the adapter is 1.4 then you will be limited to the features of HDMI 1.4

See the charts at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI#Main_specifications if you're interested in the differences between HDMI versions. To put things simply, 4K video became available with HDMI 2.0.

There are also distance limitations to consider as well. If you're running more than 25 feet then you'll need a booster.

  • 2
    re: "a digital signal not analog so the signal will either work or not work, period" That's not quite true for HDMI, ethernet, and other active interconnections with compression and error handling baked into their protocols. It is true for some formats like SPDIF and MIDI, but not HDMI, where you can get degradation before severance. To wit; when I got my new huge monitor at work, I first used the old cables, and it looked terrible. We almost returned the monitor but new cables fixed it.
    – dandavis
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 16:31
  • @dandavis It looked terrible how? The old HDMI cable was underspecc'd for the new monitor resolution and color features?
    – MonkeyZeus
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 17:08
  • 1
    Jerky, blocky, hard to read text, visible artifacts, edge contrast was exaggerated. It was much worse than just upscaling effects from a lower resolution, which the monitor actually does a decent job of. I couldn't believe it at first, but a co-worker also had the exact same reaction/chain of events with his identical monitor...
    – dandavis
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 17:16
  • 1
    @Giffyguy You're welcome, I honestly think you have nothing to worry about with the right angle adapter. Think of it as just another point of failure rather than a point of signal degradation. As long as you're installing the latest version (HDMI 2.1) then you should see no issues unless the adapter is damaged or of horrible quality and not built to actual spec.
    – MonkeyZeus
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 18:20
  • 1
    @Giffyguy Additionally, in my experience parishioners don't really respect sensitive equipment anyways so if they break the port by forcefully inserting a cable upside-down then at least they're only breaking the adapter in the wall and not ruining an entire 25 foot extension.
    – MonkeyZeus
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 18:22

I would guess solid or not much space if built like the church I grew up in. We added surface mount power , input jacks , mic jacks and “monitor speaker” jacks in the modesty shield board (that’s what my pastor called it) not much space as that was in front of the choir benches. On the choir side. we ended putting it in the middle several inches down so the 1/4’ input jacks could not be seen when mics were plugged in. Surface mount wire mold is as low profile as we could find after the congregation approved we recessed everything 1/2” so it barely stuck out and the Sopranos quit tearing there stockings. Putting an hdmi cable I would want in a separate wire way just in case but wire mold would work for the power and a separate run for the AV would not cost much and be better than floor mount.

  • "Modesty shield" haha, I think I've heard it called that before too. XD Cool, good to hear from someone who has dealt with this exact same problem. Surface mount wire mold would definitely be better than floor mount, I agree. I just don't know if it will be pretty enough. The church leaders are picky about aesthetics (cough despite picking hideous carpet cough), even if the congregation can't see it from the other side - I bet they'll ask for a non-mold solution if possible, and only fall back to a surface mold if absolutely required.
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 1:54
  • We did this in my first year of my apprenticeship back in the 70’s and they did not want any ugly wiring so I understand. One thing to be aware of if you run any speakers long distances we would pick up police radio calls. The fix was audio transformers that bumped the voltage up at the amplifier mixer board then back down at the speakers. (The first time it happened it woke the congregation up and the elders were not happy)
    – Ed Beal
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 7:12
  • "and the sopranos quit tearing there stockings" hahahahaha!
    – P2000
    Commented Feb 19, 2021 at 15:34

If you are going to mount a TV on or near that wall, and it is a high traffic area, you'll have the problem of the TV itself and the wires dangling from it being bumped or pulled by people, whether or not they go to a wall or floor outlet.

Consider a mounting solution that contains all this .... a hollow metal pole securely mounted to the floor next to the wall with hardware for mounting the TV, its power socket and HDMI port all at the top of the pole and all wires going THROUGH it directly to the crawl space.

It would help if you provided a wider shot of the area and a description of what you want to do. It does not sound like a beautifully concealed floor outlet for a permanently installed TV will meet any goals I can imagine.

  • This wall already gets kicked frequently, because of the high-traffic here. There are shoe scuffs all over the wall. The TV will definitely get kicked and broken, which is a huge problem. I'm trying to convince people to buy protective enclosures for the TVs, such as this. These could sit directly on top of floor jacks, eliminating the whole "thin wall" problem. Unfortunately, I'm getting pushback on these enclosures, due to the fact that they want these TVs to be easy to remove and re-setup whenever they want. This makes wall jacks much more preferable.
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 20, 2021 at 1:46
  • It's unclear what you're trying to achieve. You have a high traffic area with a random mini wall in the middle of it, which you want to surround with TVs, plural now, for reasons you haven't explained, and the issue you're asking us about is the right angle HDMI jack! A little more context would really help. Perhaps what you really need is not DIY help, but an architect?
    – jay613
    Commented Feb 20, 2021 at 1:52
  • Oh dude, you have no earthly idea how far this thread will snowball out of control, if I start going into details. Let me just say this HDMI jack will be fed by a 2x8 HDMI distribution amplifier, daisy-chained after ANOTHER 2x8 HDMI distribution amp, and all 16 output channels will be used. I'm trying to keep this question focused on the singular issue of the thin wall, because I already have all the other schematics planned out, and we are hiring professionals to install everything. (I just want to be able to know exactly what to ask the pros to install for us, rather than letting them guess)
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 20, 2021 at 2:14
  • Well @Giffyguy I still think there are assumptions that are constraining your choice of hardware and that ought to be examined. But I'll try another answer to your question without questioning the need. :)
    – jay613
    Commented Feb 22, 2021 at 21:22

In my other answer I tried to convince you to avoid using floor or wall jacks entirely by putting the TV and all outlets and wiring at the top of a pole mounted to the floor. Here I'll try to just answer the question as asked.

For power use a low-profile surface-mounted box such as this wiremold one (first picture), mounted on the little wall with a raceway into the crawl space. To power the TV use an extension cord with a low-profile plug (second picture).

For HDMI use a second similar box, with the feed coming up from the floor through a separate raceway, and inside the box an HDMI keystone coupler (third picture). You will have to modify the box, carefully cutting its side or bottom to accept the keystone's clips, if you don't want the TV's HDMI plug protruding outward from the wall. Alternately just use an HDMI cable already equipped with a right-angle connector (fourth picture) to connect the TV to the box with a more standard front-facing HDMI jack.

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  • Thanks for the additional good info! Much appreciated.
    – Giffyguy
    Commented Feb 22, 2021 at 22:48

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