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I am swapping out an old dishwasher that was hard-wired to a new dishwasher that requires an outlet. As you can see in the picture, the original unit was connected to a cable that goes into the wall.

I was thinking of converting the cable to an outlet by...

  1. Strapping the cable to the wall (using a hole strap) and feeding it behind the cabinet to underneath the sink.
  2. Connect the cable to a 20 amp outlet (do I need a GFCI?).
  3. Housing the outlet in a raised ground electrical box and mount it to the wall underneath the sink.

I would love to get your feedback if this is the proper way to do it and if you may have other suggestions. Thank you!

Edit: The new dishwasher make and model is Beko DDS25842X. I am wondering if it just easier to hard-wire this? I couldn't find any information online if this is possible for this model.

wall

outlet

box

  • Welcome to Stack Exchange. It would be a good idea to take our tour so you know how to participate. – HoneyDo Mar 31 at 17:40
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    Make sure the outlet is low enough to fit in the recessed spot on the back of the dishwasher. If you put it too high, the dishwasher might not go all the way back. – JPhi1618 Mar 31 at 18:04
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    If you do (for code requirement or "just because") put in GFCI, do not put in a GFCI receptacle as you would have to pull the dishwasher to reset it! Instead use a GFCI breaker. Post the model # of the dishwasher so we can check the specs - it may be easy & legitimate to remove the cord and hardwire it. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Mar 31 at 18:27
  • @manassehkatz-Moving2Codidact the make and model of the dishwasher is Beko DDS25842X. I wasn't able to find any information if this allows hard-wiring. – takoyaki Mar 31 at 18:52
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    I couldn't find an installation manual for that model. I picked a different model and found an installation manual that covered several models (but not this one!) and it seemed to be strictly cord & plug - no hardwiring. So it sounds like you are stuck on that. – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact Mar 31 at 19:07
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I think your methodology is sound. You want to make sure the plug and outlet is accessible so putting it under the sink is the way to go. When you mount it be sure to secure it to a stud and away from anywhere that could be exposed to water. This means away from the shutoff valves and not directly under the sink supply connections. Cable straps will hold the metallic cable in place. Make sure that you use enough straps that the cable is secure to the wall studs under the sink and not loose or attached to the flooring. Based on your picture you can probably do this without trimming the cable.
Take out the appropriate knockout and using the connector to secure the cable run the cable and wires into the box. Secure the connector with the locknut. Connect the hot (black) wire to the brass screw and the white to the silver. Green goes to the ground.
You shouldn't need a GFCI on this but check codes.

Edit
Many dishwashers that come with a wall plug also have alternate instructions for hardwiring. The Beko installation manual doesn't offer that as an option but you might want to contact the manufacturer to see if it is recommended.

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  • Thank you for your comment and for your suggestions on securing the cable appropriately. Will make sure the cable is secure to the wall studs and away from valves and sink connections. – takoyaki Mar 31 at 18:48
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    The NEC requires GFCI for dishwashers these days...210.8(D) – ThreePhaseEel Apr 1 at 0:23
  • Sounds like a lot of work... wouldn't it be much easier to just cut the plug off the new washer and connect it like the old one? – Z4-tier Apr 1 at 4:43
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You pretty much "got it right". Whether you are required to use a GFCI or not is often the requirements of the local code and which code version is being enforced. I don't believe a GFCI is required for a DW in the 2017 code. But if you wanted to be extra safe, it can't hurt to install one. You may get nuisance trips.

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  • Thank you. I guess it doesn't hurt to be extra safe - I'll use a GFCI. – takoyaki Mar 31 at 18:49
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I agree with the above. Still, it might be easier to hard-wire, similar to old DW. To check if you can do this, tip the new one to the side and trace how its power cord terminates. I'd bet it has the same 3 screws (usually located behind the front kick panel - so it is easy to reach when installing or removing). Then all you have to do is: release the power cord, put DW in place, feed the flex conduit under it to front, connect and tighten. A lot easier when you have one side fully open :).

P.S. the circuit feeding the DW might already have a GFCI breaker!

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  • Thanks for the answer! And welcome to Home Improvement! – IronEagle Apr 1 at 16:45

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