Is this chandelier installation safe?

Question

I've just bought and installed this chandelier in my home's entryway with a vaulted ceiling (>12' high). Based on the spec sheet, the chandelier weighs 74lb, most of which seems to be in the pendants.

The installation instructions (basically 1 page including a picture, a couple of arrows, and very few words) explicitly stated the following:

This luminaire must be mounted or supported independently of an outlet box

The instructions and the accompanying hardware showed the chandelier would be supported by:

• 2 screws mounting it to the ceiling electric box
• 16 anchors + screws mounting it to the surrounding drywall

With great difficulty, a friend and I installed it this week, with some clever ways to avoid lifting the weight (mostly in the pendants) until the fixture was attached. While installing this, 3 of the anchors got pushed the other side of the ceiling, so it's only supported by the 2 mounting screws + 13 anchors / screws into the drywall.

It looks good so far, but I'm concerned whether it's safe to mount such a heavy fixture using only 2 screws on the ceiling box (which is metal, and presumably mounted to joists) + a bunch of drywall anchors.

Is this a common setup? Am I right to be concerned that it might fall and kill someone in the next few months / years? How are such fixtures normally mounted?

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Update: this is the electric box that the fixture was attached to (photo was taken after attaching drywall anchors, but before mounting the fixture).

Update 2: here are the 3 steel cables that came with the fixture, attached to the metal disc. As you can see there are only a few inches of slack when it's attached, which are necessary to give me enough space to actually attach it.

Update 3: here is a pic of how the electric box is attached to framing in the attic. The box appears to be directly screwed into a 2x4, which appears to be nailed into the nearby joists.

Update 4: Final mounting. I replaced the existing metal box with a stronger box rated for heavy fans (mounted to the 2x4 behind it), attached the metal disc to it, and threaded a lag screw (rated for 100lb+) into the 2x4 through the middle hole. I attached the steel hooks onto this lag screw, but I feel that this is only a backup, since there's no tension on them after tightening the chandelier onto the metal disc.

Answer 1

I think you misread the instructions in a subtle but important way. They do not say that you can use the ceiling box plus some drywall anchors. They say you must not use the ceiling box at all to support this lamp. The weight must primarily be supported by a special-purpose hanging bracket for heavy light fixtures. It's shown in the instructions as a steel cable wrapped around a rod, which is one way to do it.

Presumably the steel cable is a component of the lamp ... please confirm that.

The instructions aren't clear but I believe the drywall anchors are to add stiffness and strength to the large metal disc, to help it support all the pendants. That makes sense, it is a better approach than making the disc thicker and stronger, and thereby heavier.

The diagram shows a steel cable going through the back of the junction box and attached to a support bracket.

I've looked at a few ceiling fan brackets. They are limited to 70 pounds. You should not use them! One of them (Hubbel) says it can be used by a 110 pound light (but not fan) so you maybe you could use that. But as long as you are going out and buying a special bracket for this, you may as well buy one that's not borderline.

A cheap and safe way to do it is with a steel rod sitting on top of the joists. Strut channel would be easiest because you can use the holes to fasten it to the tops of the joists, to fasten a junction box and to wrap the cable.

You can search for special-purpose heavy chandelier struts but they are just expensive steel bars. You can buy motorized ones that allow you easy access for cleaning.

You should make sure the ceiling joists are suitable for this. Hopefully, 75 pounds spread across two joists should not be a problem even if the ceiling was not designed to do more than support the drywall.

Answer 2

So far you have not provided enough information to determine the risk of failure.

You say there is a metal box, but what kind of metal box? What was the weight of the fixture that was mounted there before? This could be an indication of the holding capacity of this arrangement. Is the metal box supported on both sides (to two different joists)? Or is it supported only on one side to the side of the joist?

If it is it screwed to the bottom edge of a single joist it can be a secure mounting if the screws holding the box to the joist are rated for this AND if the screws holding the fixture to the box are rated for that. But if the fixture is held by two small diameter bolts to the small tabs at opposite sides, then this is not strong enough.

EDIT

Since you are able to examine the mounting of this metal box from the attic you will be able to better understand how the box is mounted. The best case would be that the box is securely mounted to a wooden member in the attic. The best mounting would be if the top of the box is securely screwed to a 2x4 or 2x6 in the attic edgeways or turned wide side down. A 1x4 might be strong enough but 2x lumber is much, much better. From the attic however you may not be able to see how the metal box is attached to the wooden member.

If in the attic you see that the box is attached to the side of a ceiling joist, then this box would probably not be able to support the load if the two tabs are used. There is still a way to use the box using long sprecial screws which go through the back of the box and into the wooden support. . . . waiting on your report and pic of what you see in the attic.

EDIT 2

If the box is attached only to one side of a joist, the other side of the box could be supported by retrofit blocking.

Install a 2x4 as blocking between the joists right across the top of the metal box and attach to the sides of the two joists. Use Simpson Strong Tie corner fasteners with screws (nailing could damage ceiling drywall). Insert a metal rod with a small hook on the end (or better a strong nonmetal hook) between the box and the ceiling drywall and catch the bottom edge of the metal box. Tension by pulling up and fasten the shaft of the hook to the side of the 2x4 blocking. Do this on both sides of the 2x4 blocking. The box is now securely fastened to the framing on both sides.

The hook could be made out of a large nail 16d or so. Flatten the first inch of the sharp end and then bend the flattened end into a small hook. However, a longer rod would be easier to install. Fasten the shaft of the hook to the side of the 2x4 blocking with screws in pairs. A hook could be made from stiff perforated angle steel or perforated flat steel.

EDIT 3

You have very strong framing; it is enought to hold this chandelier. The chandelier MUST be suspended by the three steel cables. Here is how to do it: In the center of the box is a knockout. Pry that out and twist it off to expose the 2x4" blocking above the steel box. Get a heavy screw in hook like those used for the old style Hunter 70 lb fans. Drill a hole vertically all the way through the 2x4 blocking. The diameter of this hole will be the correct size for the threads on the screw in hook and will be somthing like 1/4", 5/16" or 3/8" diameter depending on the diameter of the shaft inside the threads (not the outer dia of the threads). Screw in the hook and hang the steel cables from that.

Something like this but lighter rating in 100 lb to 200 lb range. https://www.amazon.com/BeneLabel-Heavy-Duty-Swing-Hangers/dp/B07XYZMGQ6/ref=asc_df_B07XYZMGQ6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416882833842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16422389901641170286&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026945&hvtargid=pla-900946197839&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=92049666137&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=416882833842&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16422389901641170286&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026945&hvtargid=pla-900946197839

EDIT 4

There is another way to support a chandelier that uses a bolt rather than a screw. The use of a lag screw hook enables installation completely from the living space below, but for really heavy loads a lag screw is not aceptable. The wood may not have sufficient pull out resistance.

In that case the hook has machine screw threads (not wood threads). A large nut over a large washer holds the hook on top (and usually a smaller washer and a nut on the underside). This is a lot stronger than a lag screw.

But this requires access to the 2x4 blocking in the space above. In this case the hole is drilled slightly larger that the threads of the hook so that the shaft goes through the hole with no resistance. This is more trouble to install but allows a lot of adjustment. I can imagine a special washer and nut combination which would be positioned over the predrilled hole in the blocking and fastened to the blocking so that, once fastened, no further access to the attic would be needed.

An eyebolt might not be necessary in this case but if you wanted to do the ultimate installation, then a 3/8" x 6" or 3/8" x 4.5" eyebolt might be the right solution. https://e-rigging.com/products/galvanized-drop-forged-regular-eye-bolts?variant=39745724710985 You would get a suitable washer for the top and another nut and washer for the inside of the box. Possibly you would not need a nut and washer inside the box, but it might be a useful addition.

Note that you must check that the diameter of the material of the ring is not too large for the clips (carabiners) on the ends of the cables. It could be that 3/8" is too large.

EDIT 5 Looking at your last pic (showing the eye screw with cables attached) it appears to me that set screws can be used to shorten these cables. Loosen the two set screws, then pull the end of the wire through the fitting to the right length, then retighten the set screws.

The "safety" cable can be left a little loose because it only would come into play if the three primary cables would fail. You might need to get another carabiner clip for the safety cable.