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I have a KitchenAid KUDI01FLWH5 dishwasher with a control board part 8530995 Rev A. It has been installed and running fine for many years, except for having to replace the door balance link cables a few years ago. It still works just fine as far as washing/rinsing/draining. The issue is with the Start switch.

Prelude

A number of months ago we noticed an occasional problem where we would have to press the Start button a few times in order for it to actually, well, start.

That issue would come and go - sometimes it would take "holding my mouth just right" after pressing the button quite a number of times for it to start; sometimes it would be an issue for a few times in a row of washing dishes; sometimes it would not happen for weeks.

Last night, the Start button seemed to finally decide that it had enough. Maybe the fireworks close by in at least 5 different directions scared it to death, I don't know. But I do know that it will not start

Pertinent Details

  • I have verified that the Control Lock feature has not been activated.
  • All the other buttons light up correctly and immediately upon being pressed, and otherwise seem to work.
  • The Start button does not have a light associated with it.
  • We could feel and hear the button click each time we pressed it, and it did not feel or sound any differently than it ever has or that other buttons do.
  • This morning I removed the control board and inspected it. I am including pictures - the control board model is "circled" in blue, and the Start switch in orange.
    • The switch in question does not look any different from the working switches
    • Clicking it feels and sounds exactly like the working switches
    • It is not loose
    • There are no obvious burn marks, scorches, burnt smells, etc.

Images

Control board from front with faulty switch circled in orange and board model number circled in blue Control board from top with faulty switch circled in orange Control board from back with faulty switch circled in orange Control board from back at sharper angle to better show traces with faulty switch connections circled in orange

Further Elaboration

I am no expert but feel that I am decently knowledgeable with electrical; however I am not so much with electronics.

My assumption is that the problem with with the physical switch component itself, but I am unsure how to support that assumption.

A new control board is ~$150 US, so given the age of this dishwasher buying a control board is not an option - a new dishwasher would come first. But I would rather fix this one if I can do it for much less.

Questions

  1. Could I electronically test my assumption using a multi-meter or other tool? If so, how would I do that (i.e., which setting, where to place the probes)?
  2. My internet searches have not gotten me any more granular for parts other than the control board. Is anyone here familiar enough with these electronic pieces to know a part number for just the single switch? Or direct me to where I could find that?
  3. We have never, ever, used the Rinse Only option. If I can't purchase a new switch only, could I melt the solders on the faulty Start and the functioning Rinse Only switches to remove them, then put the Rinse Only switch in place of the Start and solder it in?
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2 Answers 2

Reset to default
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That's a momentary contact switch so with the board installed, short out the two horizontal terminals closest to the edge of the board near the button to see if the washer starts. If it does and didn't with pushing the button, then the switch is bad. You could also put your ohm meter probes on those two terminals, with the board uninstalled, and press the button and look for infinity resistance.

These switches are push button momentary contact electronic switches. Search those and good luck. Sometimes you have to buy a "surprise" package with a bunch of different types to find the one you need.

Yes, you could use the rinse only switch if you're sure it's the same type but verify the other switch is bad first. Depending on how the circuit board is laid out, you might be able to just solder a few jumper wires to the switch copper and isolate the rinse only switch from it's intended function and not remove and re-install that switch.

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  • Thanks so much - very helpful. As I stated, I'm not very knowledgeable about electronics, and it's been a long time since any physics class where electricity was discussed; so for clarification: you are saying if I get infinity resistance with the board uninstalled (because that's the way it is right now) then the switch is bad?
    – Moonpie
    Commented Jul 6, 2021 at 0:44
  • Also: the Rinse Only switch is mounted further down the board out of the picture, but it is mounted the same way as the two switches visible in the pics. If I were to use the Rinse Only switch in place by adding jumper wires, how would you suggest that I prevent it from doing its intended function since it is connected via circuit board traces and not wires?
    – Moonpie
    Commented Jul 6, 2021 at 0:48
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    @Moonpie Yes. infinity ohms when you press the button then the switch is bad, "zero" ohms and the switch is good. Shorting out the terminals is a sure thing. Just cut the traces you need to isolate with an Exacto knife.
    – JACK
    Commented Jul 6, 2021 at 1:05
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    FYI: All the switches I came across when searching for push button momentary contact electronic switches were much bigger. Someone else suggested right angle tactile switches and that seems to be more in the ballpark. However, there a lot of sizes and options, so I'll have to figure that out....
    – Moonpie
    Commented Jul 6, 2021 at 1:32
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    Wow, my head is spinning from searching Mouser for switches. Going by this answer over at Electronics SE, the nomenclature at Mouser for Switch Function OFF - (ON) means momentary on. Is this what I need?
    – Moonpie
    Commented Jul 6, 2021 at 1:58
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If you can try using the continuity setting of the probes and press the button if it beeps its ok if not then bad. If you live near a electronics hobby shops check the bulletin board someone can replace it for 20 bucks in 15 seconds and probably has that same switch in a drawer somewhere, Its a very common design.

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