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I want to run a 7 inch duct between two ceiling joists (parallel to them), 10 feet across an entire room (wall to wall), so I can replace a failing ductless range hood with a ducted one.

The house is 1896 construction and there are diagonal braces everywhere. Here is a picture of how the bracing was done, taken from above:

enter image description here

It's a 10 foot run, there are probably at least two such braces in the joist bay I want to use, but I won't know til I open it. The joists are 2x9 actual (not nominal).

Can I remove the braces, install a 7" duct in the 9" bay, and then put a few 2" blocks beneath the duct? Or do I even need the blocks?

Let's assume that in one or two other places above my kitchen, the braces have already been removed for previous projects. I should not assume my joist bay will be the only one with original bracing removed. This photo is not from above my kitchen, it's above a different room but as you can see in THAT case, bracing was removed for a 4" waste pipe. I MUST assume such things have been done above the kitchen during many major renovations over the decades. If I add blocks they will be on the bottom (drywall) side of the joist, while the top will be braced by the wood subfloor above.

The answer to this similar question suggests that if blocking was there originally, cutting holes in it is preferable to removing it. I'm adapting that here, suggesting adding partial blocking to replace bracing. But it's not the same era of construction.

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    I changed the picture to one that better shows original bracing. Please no comments on the notches. That's a long discussion that will overwhelm this relatively simple question. Briefly - those notches have been there 60+ years and the floor is rock solid, no sag or give, and 2) I added engineered steel repair brackets anyway. And 3) This photo is not above my kitchen but above another 1st floor room. We must assume that above the kitchen there are also interesting things to be found.
    – jay613
    Commented 5 hours ago

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Yeah, you can.

That bridging serves to hold the joist in position and to transfer load from one joist to another. It's not a critical component, really. It just improves overall stiffness in the floor, and the adjacent bridging still does that to some extent. The edge notching we see was far more damaging to that aspect.

If you restore what integration you can through blocking you'll be fine. If you find your floor to be bouncy in general, it needs more significant upgrades anyway.

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  • It's possible that adding additional bracing between each of these joists and their other neighbor might help with any bounciness that develops.
    – Questor
    Commented 6 hours ago
  • I'm not sure I understand that question. Do you mean duplicating the bridging? That would provide negligible additional effect, I'd think.
    – isherwood
    Commented 6 hours ago
  • Not exactly duplicating it... more like improving the existing cross bracing on the adjacent parallel runs next to the duct work. If the cross bracing alternates inside of a run... It wouldn't do anything, but I have seen some older houses where the cross bracing only alternates between runs, which works as long as you have bracing on either side. But doesn't work as well if you remove all of the corss bracing inside one of those runs.
    – Questor
    Commented 6 hours ago
  • Maybe my confusion stems from the assumption that we have X-bracing here. On second look maybe we don't. So yes, adding a second brace to create a full X would have slight benefits (all the benefits from this bridging is slight).
    – isherwood
    Commented 6 hours ago
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    I replaced the photo in the Question with a new one that better shows some of the original bracing. If I understand the above discussion, the full X bracing in all joist bays (originally all, perhaps no longer, and one less if I do this) means that adding more bracing in adjacent joist bays would not be beneficial.
    – jay613
    Commented 5 hours ago

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