3

When my house was built, I didn't know where the fence/gate would end up, so wire was installed to the general area. It was up to me to finish trenching and wiring up once the gate was installed. That's where I'm at now.

The goal is to have both switched and constant power at the gate. Since it's outdoors (in a weatherproof enclosure), I'm thinking I need GFCI. However, I don't think you can do GFCI on a split outlet, right?

If I use a GFCI breaker and wire as depicted in the diagram below, will that work? If it's not possible (allowed), what are my options?

Thanks for the help! proposed wiring

Improve this question

4 Answers 4

Reset to default
11

Yes, this will work fine. Two minor notes:

  • GFCI breaker makes a lot of sense here

It keeps the installation simple and, more importantly, it keeps the GFCI inside. GFCI outside is subject to more problems due to temperature changes, weather, etc. A simple receptacle (which should be (a) weather-resistant and (b) covered by an in-use cover) has no electronic components to fail - it is literally just metal wires/parts with plastic/ceramic/etc. covering/insulating/holding it together. A GFCI/breaker should last for many years, likely "forever" in a practical sense if it doesn't get frequent trips. A GFCI/receptacle inside should last nearly as long. A GFCI/receptacle outside could easily fail within a few years.

  • Wiring colors on switch loop

A switch loop using standard black/white cable (no neutral) is supposed to have the white wire as always hot and the black wire as switched hot. That way it is obvious if tested whether power from the breaker is on or not for safety. If the white wire is used as switched hot then you could fall into the trap of "of course the white wire has no power, it is neutral" when it isn't actually neutral - and then one flip of the switch and you get zapped. If marked (as shown in the diagram, and required by code) there wouldn't be the same potential problem, but markings have a way of being forgotten or falling off.

So, if practical, swap the switch wires in the junction box (doesn't matter at the switch as a simple switch doesn't care hot/always hot top vs. bottom) so that the black wire is connected to the red wire going to the receptacle (you can put red tape on it to indicate "switched" and to make it easier to keep track of things) and the white wire (put black tape on it to indicate always hot) to the other blacks.

Improve this answer
3
  • 4
    Interesting about the switch loop colors, I learned something new today!
    – Triplefault
    Commented Nov 3 at 19:47
  • Thanks, great info! I can easily switch the wires (for correct colors -- I had no idea). Also, I didn't realize there are "outdoor" outlets (WR). I figured if it was in a weatherproof enclosure, it would be fine. I'll buy the correct receptacle now that I know.
    – nw47978
    Commented Nov 4 at 5:06
  • 1
    Re-reading your answer, once I swap the wires, should the white wire from the switch be marked with black tape instead of red? ("...put black wire on it to indicate always hot..." -- I think wire=tape in that comment. )
    – nw47978
    Commented Nov 4 at 5:14
5

This will work fine since, although the outlet is split, both sides come from the same single breaker.

The issue with GFCI occurs when the neutral from two GFCI breakers are connected together. This is why a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC) fed from GFCI requires a 240 volt (double) GFCI breaker, not two 120 volt GFCI breakers, even handle-tied.

Improve this answer
1

Using a GFI breaker would definitely be a good idea.

If you are using a 20 amp breaker I would advise using a 20 amp receptacle (with 12 gauge wire - consider stepping up to 10 gauge wire the run is over 100ft) if it is the only receptacle on the circuit. It is code that on 20 amp circuits with just one dedicated outlet the receptacle must be a 20 amp rated device.

It is outdoors, so use a wet rated receptacle and I'm assuming the constant hot side will have an extension cord plugged in so use a good bubble cover as well (weatherproof rated cover).

Improve this answer
-1

Swith loops are no longer allowed in the latest NEC. Every electrical box needs a neutral. If you can't fit a ganged box with a GFCI and separate switch at your preferd location, consider a GFCI combo device (GFCI and switch) that would fit in a single gang box. Of course a GFCI breaker works either way. A plus is you eliminate a junction box.

Improve this answer
1
  • What's true is you need neutral at switch locations -- you can still run a switch loop in the current NEC, you just need to run a "spur" neutral with the switchloop instead of omitting it altogether like you used to do
    – ThreePhaseEel
    Commented Nov 8 at 3:04

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.