0

Today I went to replace a non-locking door handle that leads from the house to the garage with a key-secured one, but after grabbing a standard sized latch and handle and trying to install it I realized that the backset is not 2 3/8" or 2 3/4" like normal and instead sits at pretty much exactly 2 5/16".

Being 1/8" less than the standard means that the latch guard doesn't sit flush with the door edge and results in greater sheer forces applied to the strike causing the latch to move a lot when the door closes.

I have looked far and wide for a 2-5/16" backset latch/handle but cannot find them anywhere. Any ideas where I could find one or am I out of luck and need to either fill and re-bore OR get a whole new door?

3
  • 1
    You will not find a knob or handle set that is listed as a 2 5/16" backset. You may be "mincing fractions" that will not affect the mounting of the lock. If I am missing the point, pictures are definitely needed to illustrate your point.
    – Jack
    Jan 22, 2023 at 19:37
  • Are you sure it's not a convertible bolt set to the longer position? Many Schlage sets have a bolt with two options which are changed simply by moving a part. Most keyed sets would be preconfigured for a 2-3/4" (exterior door) backset. Please provide more detail and photos, if possible.
    – isherwood
    Jan 22, 2023 at 21:14
  • Yeah it is configured at 2-3/4" and yet the latch guard still protrudes from the edge of the door a solid 1/16-1/8" even when I have the knob as far awar from it as possible. I might just have to file down a 1/16" of the bore hole so I can slide the knob away enough to sit flush. Jan 22, 2023 at 21:22

2 Answers 2

2

If the original is a 2 3/8 backset knob or handle, the 1/16" difference in backset should not be an issue.

Be aware, most doors are beveled on the closing edge, so one face of the door will be wider than the other, usually an 1/8". The backset dimension of the latchset is taken from the wider face of the door. and since the latch itself is centered in the edge, it only stands to reason the actual length may be shorter that the stated dimension.

Either way we are talking 1/16". This can be accommodated by shifting the knob or lever in its' bore. Typically when I set latches, I set the strike bolt in the edge of the door flush with the edge. Most, not all latch sets are made so the mounting plate for the catch is at a slight angle to follow the bevel of the door, so it can set flush across the edge of the door. once this is fastened in place, this will dictate where the knob will go. With only a 1/16" difference, it should still slip in. If not, use a file or other means to move the offending edge of the hole over the 1/16" so the knob will slip in without fouling against the knob bore.

There is usually 1/4" of cover by the knob rosette, so it can afford to be shifted over without exposing the bore for the knob on the opposite side.

3
  • Yeah I tried to shit the knob as far back as it would go and it still protrudes and is not flush and wiggles quite a bit because of it. I think you rsuggsetion to file down the back edge of the bore hole and hope the rosette still covers it is my best option other than starting with a fresh door. I will take another look today and get back to you if I am able to do that. Thanks! Jan 22, 2023 at 21:26
  • There are some mountings that use only the centering on the latchbolt to provide location on the face of the door. That type should give you no issue. There are other types that will "settle" into the bored hole and more or less force their own center based on the bore alone. Those types you can simply ease just the edge of the hole on either side to allow the mounting to move th little it needs. All in all, I am surprised that a 16th inch, is that problematic with todays hardware built fit in bores that can be off from the factory. I have seen some holes off but worked.
    – Jack
    Jan 22, 2023 at 22:04
  • Ok I got it all secured and fitting now! After just a couple minutes with a file I got enough space to get the knob passed through the latch and the rosette still easily covered it so no one will ever know. After re-evaluating what happened I realized that the previous latch appeared to still work (albeit was very loose and wiggled a lot) because whoever installed it didn't put the guard around it. I could see that if I put my new guard on the old latch, it also protruded out. So really just seemed like someone trying to cover up their mistakes instead of fixing it. Thanks again Jack! Jan 22, 2023 at 22:20
1

Replacing a door without a lock might mean that the door itself is an interior door, which generally provides scant to no protection against a solid kick. This is even more important to keep in mind as the burglar would have a private place to kick in the door, with less chance of being seen from the street.

If you are attempting to provide some security between the garage and door, I would remove the frame and get a pre-hung exterior door with a steel skin. Then I would take good measure to ensure it was properly anchored to the wall framing. This way a person who sees a lock won't be successful in just kicking through the door's core.

Also, consider a deadbolt when replacing the old door, but be sure to use an interior latched one, to keep your occupants safe during a fire. Deadbolts are much less likely to fail during an intrusion attempt (and do a little research to avoid those that can be bump picked).

1
  • The door is definitely an exterior door. It is much heavier than your typical interior door. I triple checked the measurement from the center of the bore hole and the edge and it was indeed 2-5/16" (+ another 1/32" maybe) which caused the protrusion I mention. If I can't get this door to work out, I will make note of your suggestions, thanks! Jan 22, 2023 at 21:24

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.