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I'm planning on building a media wall spanning the entire width of a wall in the kitchen. This will involve building a stud wall which will be fixed either side to a 'dot and dab' wall, concrete screws at the bottom and probably into the ceiling joists at the top.

I've already built something similar to block off the garage door for my gym and went straight in to the breeze block with some hammer fixings.

My question is, what do you think is the best way to attach the stud wall to the dot and dab wall either side?

Current thoughts are to use some of the Corefix fixings I have but I'm not sure how they will perform given the thickness of the studs. I've also got a bunch of Rigifix fixings that I could use with some extra long bolts. These two options seem a bit nuclear and was wondering if anyone had a simpler solution?

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  • What's a "dot and dab wall"?
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 23, 2022 at 19:58
  • @isherwood drywall glued to brick or cinderblock.
    – longneck
    Commented Feb 23, 2022 at 19:59
  • Oh. I'd either use robust anchors right through the drywall or channel the drywall and use smaller anchors into the block. It doesn't need to be complicated.
    – isherwood
    Commented Feb 23, 2022 at 20:01
  • Show photos… ? A lot of us don’t know what a dot and dab wall is.
    – RibaldEddie
    Commented Feb 23, 2022 at 20:12
  • a dot and dab wall looks like most other drywall finishes. the only difference is how it's constructed.
    – Jasen
    Commented Feb 24, 2022 at 1:37

2 Answers 2

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Are you asking how to attach your new wall to the walls it abuts on the left and right? It probably doesn't matter.

The reason to attach to the adjacent walls in this case is to eliminate small movements that might crack the drywall joints. The load will be carried by the floor, and tip-over will be prevented by connecting to the ceiling joists. The connections to the adjacent walls will provide no additional strength.

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  • Don't. You'll crack the dot and dab. Top and bottom, +1
    – Mazura
    Commented Feb 23, 2022 at 20:27
  • That's true. They'll still need to be fixed to prevent significant movements (and cracking the joins to the walls).
    – user767428
    Commented Feb 24, 2022 at 20:28
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corefix is mostly for fixing sheet-metal. so it would work fine with metal studs, But to work with wooden studs you'll need to carve recess using a spade bit, or use a metal bracket to connect the corefix to the stud.

The rigifix with a longer bolt will be simpler to use

I would use a fender washer between the stud and the fixing (corefix or rigifix) to prevent the fixing from embedding itself into the wood and causing crush damage on the dot-and-dab. This can be taped in position using masking tape or whatever.

You need somehing fairly nuclear to prevent the end stud from flexing too much if someone falls agaisnt the wall, if the wall moves too much the corner tape will be damaged. Probably you only need one fixing half way up the stud. Another option would be to double or triple stud at the end.

I can see "engineers" preferring the fixing, and "carpenters" preferring multiple studs. but either method is likely to work well enough.

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  • That's a fair point about fixing the end studs. I'm unfortunately an Engineer! (MEng). But I like the idea of not fixing them and doubling down on the end studs. I've also been considering metal studs since I posted this like you suggested and using corefix fixings in to the block work. Here's a secondary question then.... The ceiling joists aren't running in a favorable direction to fix in to. So I can either fix in to the cavity using spring toggles are plasterboard anchors. Or run some battens 90 degrees to the top track, fix those in to the joists and then fix to that.
    – user767428
    Commented Feb 24, 2022 at 20:34

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