Replacing a tub spout...took the old one off without issue or really looking at things. Generally a no brainer.

When replacing with new Moen spout (typical 1/2" slip-fit CC connection) I noticed one side of spout was tight/flush to wall and one was not, no matter how much jiggling, twisting, pushing, etc. I did. I put a square up against the wall and stub-out (1/2" copper tube) stub out to check and clearly it's not square:

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Anything I should/could do to fix this before replacing/installing new spout?


There are a few things you can. Get a rod that fits into the pipe about three to four inches without a lot of play and try to bend the pipe ever so slightly just enough to square it with the tile. You could also file down the part of the spout that hits the wall first and do so until the entire spout seats against the wall. Last but not least, just install it as is and then caulk around it to fill in the gap.

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    looking at his pictures, bending the pipe , as you suggested would be the way to fix it. (up voted). – ojait Dec 31 '20 at 1:11
  • 1) Gap between spout and wall is about 1mm at widest, so I don't see filing it as best, or even workable, option. Especially given the quality of materials used in most of today's manufacturing. – mblatz01 Dec 31 '20 at 16:44
  • 2) I probably have a rod or dowel or handle to something (ratchet?) about that size. My enormous concern is somehow, someway either cracking/breaking/loosening/crimping/whatever the copper tube joint behind the wall or, similarly (but less catastrophic), the ceramic tile around the tube. Although tile is not that tightly fitted around the tube...about .5" of radial distance between the tube and the hole through the tile. – mblatz01 Dec 31 '20 at 16:44
  • 3) Assuming I am not some ham-handed, gorilla-fisted Derp, is it reasonable to think the copper tube will bend/move the few degrees needed with just a little bit of a yank/push/pull? What's the 'fulcrum' in this situation? The joint to the valve (or Tee fitting) inside the wall? – mblatz01 Dec 31 '20 at 16:44
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    @mblatz01 1mm is a pretty small gap so caulking around the spout after tightening it up against the wall with a good silicone caulk would be good. The fulcrum for that small bend would be the distance the rod was inserted in the pipe.. closest to the wall would be good... even support the pipe at the wall with the edge of your hand while applying the small bending force, – JACK Dec 31 '20 at 17:09

Jacks advice is sound. I'd just like to suggest two other options. If you cut a rubber backing plate to the outline (slightly wider) of the drain spout it would fill the slight gap on one side and compress on the other.

Also, if the gap isn't large, install the spout and fill the gap with caulking.

  • Thanks, I'll think about this, especially if Lowes Depot or Amazon offer some decorative rings or closed-cell product for this application. But it still would seem to have to leave a noticeable something on one side of the spout since with a slip-on fitting there is no way to "compress" or snug-up one side vs. the other of the spout. Note, the spout being a few degrees off is t not an issue for me, aesthetically. But the gap is totally noticeable; a consistent ring of caulk around it would at least make it all look the same. – mblatz01 Dec 31 '20 at 16:50
  • I've had a similar situation. Check if you can access the pipe by opening up the wall on the other side of the bathroom wall. enough to heat the fitting and straighten it. – ojait Dec 31 '20 at 16:59
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    Thanks, ojait. While wall is not accessible at all, the bending suggestion from @JACK and seconds from others (like you) won the day. :--) – mblatz01 Jan 1 at 18:25

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