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I'm working on replacing a kitchen sink faucet, home is 5 years old, and all of the valves are push/pull and plastic attached to 1/2" copper (I'm assuming that's the standard from online research). I replaced the faucet but now each time the motion sensor faucet shuts off while on cold, it kind of slams shut and the valve pops up, shutting the supply off. My plan is to remove the plastic push/pulls and replace them with 1/2" SharkBite x 3/8" OD (compression), metal 1/4 turn valves (link).

2 questions from this:

1) Is that a good idea? Replacing a valve that pops up when the water shuts off? Or could there be a bigger problem?

2) When I remove the push/pull plastic valve (by twisting it counter-clockwise until it comes off as I've read and seen on YouTube), do I need to cut back the copper pipe for the SharkBite to latch correctly? I'm worried about there being grooves or teeth marks from the previous plastic valve.

Thanks in advance

  • To allow the SharkBite to form a water-tight seal you will need 1 inch of clean (unmarred) copper. – unutbu Mar 18 '18 at 19:27
  • like these? terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/… Isn't there some way to secure the valve so it cant pop closed? – agentp Mar 18 '18 at 19:28
  • Thanks @unutbu, how would suggest cleaning it? Rubbing alcohol and an old rag? – Grant Mar 18 '18 at 19:31
  • @agentp, those look very similar, yes. But popped up = shut off/closed so I currently have it wired down but I hate rigging it like that. Plus I've read all sorts of pros/cons on these plastic valves and I've made the personal decision to replace them with a metal 1/4 turn. – Grant Mar 18 '18 at 19:35
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It sounds like do to the nature of your faucet that when the water shuts off it shuts off so abruptly that it creates a serious amount of pressure against your valve. While in theory your sharkbite should hold up to that pressure i would be worried that over time it may get weaker.

For piece of mind i would install quarter turn compression valves, they are not hard to install and do not require soldering. Either way you should make sure that your copper is in good condition, no burrs or scars. Use some emery cloth to burnish/clean it up to see if it in good condition and not deformed.

You do not want anything that can damage the rubber o-ring in the sharkbite when you slide it onto the copper.

If you decide to go with the sharkbite you may want to install water hammer arrestor's to absorb the shock when the water shuts off.

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Regarding the use of push-fit valves such as the SharkBite:

You will need 1 inch of clean (unmarred) copper, PEX, or CPVC on which to seat the push-fit valve and form a water-tight seal.

If the end of the copper pipe has grooves or teeth marks, you would have to cut the pipe to give yourself a clean unmarred portion of pipe on which to seat the valve. While you can cut copper using a (mini-)hacksaw, it may leave burrs (which can be cleaned up with steel wool). A bigger obstacle is that it may be difficult to make a perfectly perpendicular cut. So an easier alternative is to use a pipe cutter -- this tool can make a perpendicular cut with no burrs.

Finally, if you choose to use a push-fit valve, it is also a good idea to leave an additional 1 inch of space (exposed copper pipe) so you will have room to use the removal tool in the future if necessary.

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