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Following from a question i posted before

Between my house and my gate, I have a long pathway through my garden which is wooded. There are bushes and trees so PIR sensors are not guaranteed to work so I want to use a switch at either end as well as PIR sensors. The ideal operation would be to have 3 floodlights, 2 PIR sensors (for security) and also a switch at the gate end , and a switch at the house end. I did try to sketch this out in the previous question however it became clear that my approach was wrong.

I already own a handful of each of these PIR sensors so I'd like to use them if possible

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    how is this question different from what you asked before?
    – jsotola
    Commented Nov 10 at 19:29
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    @jsotola this one describes the need. Other one asked how to use three way switches that made installation and operation complicated.
    – jay613
    Commented Nov 11 at 12:26

1 Answer 1

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  1. Run a 3+ground wire cable along the entire length of the path. Power, neutral and switched power plus ground. Anywhere along the path you can put a switch, a PIR, or a light and you can use switched or unswitched power as required for each device. All switches will be in parallel so any switch turns the light on.
  2. If the PIRs are for security, place them where they will provide the most security. I guess one at the entrance from the street and one near the house.
  3. At the far end use a timed override switch. A simple spring-loaded 15 minute one or something more complex so long as it's rated for outdoors.
  4. At the near end you can do the same thing and you can also provide, in parallel, a regular on/off switch that will lock the lights on if, say, you're doing something along the path in the dark. If you do use a third "stay on" switch you could find one with a pilot light if you want. Not critical. The time switches allow people who are coming and going to press the button and know they can make it to the other end without relying on the PIRs. They do not rely on anyone remembering to turn lights off.
  5. Instead of the on/off pilot light switch, you could use a Smart switch (in parallel with the motions and countdowns). The Smart switch could provide the same function i.e permanent on when you need it, and it could also add clock-based function like staying on for a couple of hours every evening.

With a three-wire cable, you don't have to worry about weird power loops that are dangerous. And every type of user gets brainless functionality. Intruders hopefully our captured when they first enter the path and when they are nearest the house. Typical users, in the dark, get the positive feel of pushing a button and don't have to remember to turn it off. A smart switch provides anything else you'll need in future and that can be indoors.

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  • Thanks for the detailed answer. I think I understand you but can i just clarify with a new diagram. In this schema, the grey is the switched power and for simplicity ive ignored the timed switching/smart switch. is this correct: imgur.com/a/62dLteO
    – Alex
    Commented Nov 11 at 9:28
  • Also my PIRs dont have ground but my lights do
    – Alex
    Commented Nov 11 at 9:29
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    The diagram looks good. If any light or switch requires a "lighting circuit" with a 5A (or whatever) breaker your socket will be limited to that also. Check all documentation. You can further design around that limitation. And run the ground through the PIR housing with a loop long enough to connect it in future to a different device that does need it.
    – jay613
    Commented Nov 11 at 11:08

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