It is a very small job suited for DIY.,
If you don't have one a non contact voltage detector is a must and a volt meter is a good idea.
first verify no breakers have tripped sometimes the wiring can be bizzare. If the breaker did not trip it probably fried the light switch. There should be power at the light switch verify with the meter or non contact tester, if power is there turn off the breaker and verify power is off, now replace the switch wire for wire, if it is a standard 2 wire switch just move the wires over in this case black/white don't later but if it has a bare copper wiry that goes on the green screw on the new switch. If there are 3 insulated current carying conductors we will need to figure out the common usually the black screw or 2 screws will be silver or brass in color and the other is the common the 2 that are the same color are travelers make sure to move wire from common to common and then the travelers over (sometimes they are labeled) turn the breaker back on and verify you fixed it. Edit, I missed the fact that the switch was out of circuit. With a short circuit at this point one of the points that feeds this box had a weak splice or connection that is daisy chained. It can be a hot or a neutral many times I find a back stab (push in connection that has failed) in a few cases a broken wire or loose wire. I would check all the outlets and switch locations looking for discolored or melted insulation, if you find either you are getting close. I focus on back stabs because many times this is where I find the problem, any melted or discolored insulation shows the high resistance point and even if secure (won't come out) this can be the root cause. Hope this edit helps.
