I have a craftsman DLT2000 Model 917.272264 that will not start. I think its electrical since it is not trying to turn over and does not crank. The battery is about a month old and it double checked the voltage with my multimeter. The seat switch is allowing continuity so that check passes in the ignition sequence. Beyond that I am at a loss as how to determine what is wrong. Can anyone assist me in how to figure this thing out? Attached are the electrical diagram and part/switch layouts. enter image description here

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    Starter motor depends on the starter solenoid. Can you hear it click when you turn the ignition? If you can, then the solenoid is probably not engaging the contacts properly. If you can't hear it click then the solenoid is powered through the PTO switch, Clutch/Brake switch, Ignition switch, Ammeter (optional) & Fuse. Any one of those could be causing trouble.
    – brhans
    Aug 29, 2016 at 18:12
  • Its not a pull start. @brhans nothing happens when I turn the key. Do you have any recommendations on how to test the components you mentioned or which do you think would be the likely problem. The fuse is good. Checked that one first Aug 29, 2016 at 18:27
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    I'd work back from the solenoid looking for 12v when you turn the ignition switch to start. So Multimeter (-) lead on battery (-) and probing with Multimeter (+) lead on solenoid control terminal, then PTO switch C & G terminals, then clutch/brake switch, etc.
    – brhans
    Aug 29, 2016 at 18:37
  • Thanks @brhans. I guess I will get back out there and start poking around Aug 29, 2016 at 18:50
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    What was the voltage when you checked the battery?
    – Tester101
    Aug 29, 2016 at 23:25

1 Answer 1


Put it in neutral, and short the terminal on the solenoid, that the battery (+) is connected to which is a big lug, to one of the smaller terminals on the solenoid (the one that is not labelled as black in the drawing). Assuming that they're not both black that should be easy. There are three possibilities: 1. There is a click and the starter motor starts to crank. 2. There is a click and nothing else. 3. No click, no nada. Scenario #1 means that either your ignition switch or the clutch brake pedal up switch or the C-G contacts of the PTO switch are stuck open. It is still possible to start and use it safely if you have it in neutral and the other terminals of the start switch work (key must be set to run). The one time that this happened to me it was the ignition switch, and I just started it by shorting out the two terminals for a month before finally getting a switch. Scenario #2 means that either the starter motor is defective or the solenoid is defective. It's not recommended to operate the tractor if this is the case but you can test which of these is the problem by shorting the two large lugs momentarily (just tap them lightly with something large). If nothing happens it is the starter motor that is defective. If it cranks then it is the solenoid that is defective. Scenario #3 means that the solenoid is defective and needs to be replaced. It won't be the fuse or the ammeter those are in parallel with the starter circuit.

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