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I had my basement waterproofed, and some studs had to be cut to drill for the drainage pipe. They also cut the bottom plate, which I cut a piece of PT wood and set it in place where the section was removed.

I can't remove the existing cut studs, because the drywall behind it is attached to them. The stringers are secured to the basement ground, and one stringer attached to the brick wall on other side, I think the studs might attach to them also, but I'm not 100% sure.

How do I make this to code? Or ... if not possible any longer, how do I make this structurally strong.

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  • Almost anyway you want for a non load bearing wall. Studs there are mostly for nailing/screwing wall covering to. The stud on the left side shows one way, but I like more surface. I would try to mark(pencil, tape) the floor and/or ceiling if the studs are sifted over. Nothing worst than screwing drywall to a stud and half way down find the stud missing. Load bearing wall studs do need specific ways of repair and probably need an engineer before and after.
    – crip659
    Commented Jun 19, 2022 at 19:52
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    I don't think it's bearing load, could I just sister in a stud next to the second cut stud from the left? then call it good? Commented Jun 19, 2022 at 20:04
  • Non load bearing can do almost anything, sistering probably the easiest. Someway to remember where studs change places would help in future. Expecting a stud at 16 OC but is at 18 OC is nice to know for nailing/screwing.
    – crip659
    Commented Jun 19, 2022 at 21:13
  • why would you want to replace them if as you say they are not needed for the structure, if for drywall you can use horizontal studs
    – DIY75
    Commented Jun 19, 2022 at 22:45
  • So I see from the edit you deleted the load bearing part in the title. Are you sure this isn't a load bearing wall? If it isn't load bearing, fixing is easy. If it is load bearing, you really want to add studs where they were cut. Commented Jun 20, 2022 at 0:14

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It meets code as is. It's not habitable space, so it doesn't require an outlet. It's not a fire wall, so it doesn't even need drywall. It doesn't support the house nor the staircase. (load bearing walls generally don't run the same direction as the joists... and no stringer ever counts on the wall next to it to do anything)

It can exist as is, or completely not be, with both an outlet and drywall being optional.

Cut the rest of the studs out, drywall the wall and the underside of the staircase. Now you can put crap there, and there isn't a mystery zone of, I wonder what's happening under there after that last flood we had....

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  • The staircase in my modern house relies on the walls immediately adjacent. The engineer even wanted to see the nails penetrating through the walls to ensure the proper length nails were used. Commented Jun 20, 2022 at 22:19

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