3

I am trying to replace the anode in my water heater. I have drained the tank. I have removed the insulation between the anode and the outer jacket of the heater. I have the 1-1/16" wrench for the anode hex nut, and rods to go through the wrench to provide torque.

View looking down into hole in outer jacket

view into hole

The problem is that the anode does not line up well with the hole in the outer jacket. So if I put the wrench upright in the hole, it hits the top of the anode nut and doesn't touch the sides at all. If I put the wrench in at an appropriate angle, I can get it to go around the nut, but not in a way that gets a good grip.

How can I remove the anode?

Here are some pictures.

Side views of wrench inserted upright or angled into the jacket hole

(The upright approach does not grip the nut, so the wrench is unstable in that image.)

enter image description here

Top views through wrench inserted upright or angled into the jacket hole

-In the upright option, the wrench ends up on top of the anode nut, so not all sides of the nut are visible.

-In the angled option, the wrench goes around the anode nut, but doesn't grip the sides at the top of the photo.

top views

Improve this question
7
  • 2
    What seems to block it is the plastic shell and thermal insulation. Simple use of force will likely press the thermal insulation back, but if space is still too tight, careful cutting with a knife and trimming the plastic with a file should leave sufficient room. If concerned about the small loss of insulation, push in a bit of fiberglass batting and cover with tape.
    – DrMoishe Pippik
    Commented Feb 14, 2022 at 20:02
  • 3
    Top cover of the tank might just be screwed on. Removing the screws and lifting cover a bit should make lining up better.
    – crip659
    Commented Feb 14, 2022 at 20:29
  • 1
    I have heard comments on home renovation shows that in practice, anodes often get stuck/corroded in place and cannot be easily removed, so keep that in mind.
    – Armand
    Commented Feb 15, 2022 at 0:00
  • 2
    If the cover cannot be rotated to line up properly, then I'd cut the access hole in the cover to allow the wrench to line up properly. I might also write a scathing letter to the company regarding sloppy manufacturing tolerances interfering with tank maintenance. Of course, they don't want you to do tank maintenance, they want your water heater to fail on schedule and they get to sell you a new one... I assume the top cover/jacket is steel, as with most heaters I've seen.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Feb 15, 2022 at 3:32
  • 2
    You're definitely making it hard on yourself with that particular choice of tool. That makes no sense; seems like you bought a single-use tool that is a) flimsy, and b) has no other application. A quality ratchet set (the stuff Greg Hill talks about) is a lifetime investment. The $25 Craftsman tune-up set I bought in my teens is still my mainstay tool set, but has been massively added to over the decades. The 1-1/16" socket was added in the 90s, but the 5/8" and swing ratchet are original.
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Feb 15, 2022 at 4:57

1 Answer 1

Reset to default
10

Instead of this tool you could try an ordinary 1-1/16" socket with an extension bar and ratchet (or breaker bar). The difference in this set of tools vs the tubular wrench you have now is that the extension bar of the socket is a much smaller diameter than that of the tubular wrench. Assuming the socket's height is less than that of the insulation (so that it can be moved sideways after it clears the access hole), you'd be able to set the socket squarely onto the anode nut even though the nut is off-center compared to the access hole.

Improve this answer
2
  • 1
    Exactly. In 3/8" and 1/2" drive sockets, a 1-1/16" socket (commonly used size) is about 1-3/8" diameter. It's used with a 3/8" or 1/2" extension bar which is (about that wide). This tolerates 1/2" of hole misalignment while still lining up dead square. (Or somewhat more misalignment and not quite being on square).
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Feb 15, 2022 at 4:45
  • Update: I got a 1/2” drive ratchet and a 1-1/16” socket, which indeed let me grip the nut well and apply some real torque. But there is no movement — it’s now six years after installation, and the nut may be stuck or corroded in place as Armand suggested.
    – Matt F.
    Commented Feb 27, 2022 at 16:44

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.