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After the Public Safety Power Shutoffs and regular blackouts in my area, I purchased a solar generator (think a suitcase battery with hookups for small solar panels). When the power goes out, I can just run an extension cord to the fridge.

Problem is, the plug is behind the fridge and space is tight enough that even temporarily moving it is a challenge for me, and out of the question for my upstairs housemate.

I would like to set something up so that the fridge can be switched from mains to battery and back without having to move the fridge. One thought I had was looking for a cord with two inlets, but all my googling has produced is either regular extension cords, RV supplies, or how to use the battery in the first place, none of which are helpful.

Is there a product I'm missing that would make this work?

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    Heavy Duty Air Conditioner and Major Appliance Extension Cord Wire, (9 FT) (14 awg) Amazon
    – Mazura
    Commented Dec 17, 2021 at 2:12
  • "without having to move the fridge" - yeah, that's called an extension cord. Are you over thinking this or am I under?
    – Mazura
    Commented Dec 17, 2021 at 2:14
  • You unplug it from the extension cord and plug it into the battery.... If you want to have to do nothing, that's a transfer switch, and a whole 'nother story.
    – Mazura
    Commented Dec 17, 2021 at 2:25
  • @Mazura A regular extension cord would require me to move the fridge every single time the power goes out, and every single time it comes back on, because otherwise it blocks access to the plug and the cord both. A transfer switch looks a lot like I was envisioning though, thank you!
    – Stop Being Evil
    Commented Dec 17, 2021 at 2:51
  • 2
    leave the part where the fridge connects to the extension cord, or where the extension cord connects to the wall, accessable: don;t hide it behind the fridge,
    – Jasen
    Commented Dec 17, 2021 at 3:23

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Code allows installing, using in-wall wiring methods, an outlet that connects to an inlet. The outlet can be behind the fridge, and the inlet can be in a more practical location. Then, you can use a short cord to jumper from the inlet to a nearby outlet to power the fridge.

This is mainly used for TVs (think: wall mount TV with hidden receptacle, except people want the TV plugged into a power strip for vampire load shutoff, and for surge protection).

Note that if your inlet and jumper are anywhere where outlets must be GFCI, then you will be putting your refrigerator on GFCI, something I strongly recommend against. Also, the jumper cord between outlet and inlet will be at risk for being knocked off, in which case you lose all your food. I would recommend a battery powered temperature alarm.

In fact, once you have the alarm, I would recommend you power the refrigerator only as long as it needs to run, and then shut off the battery inverter altogether. Having the inverter "spun up" and making 120V requires a constant energy burn on the battery, even if it's not used. This is wasted on a refrigerator that is at target temperature and won't run again for another 30 minutes. And you can't afford to waste battery in one of those little things, which keep the battery small so the unit is liftable. Turn the inverter back on every hour or two and let the fridge run til it stops. The alarm is your safety net: it will warn you before it gets too warm in the fridge.

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