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So the burners stay on no matter what setting - low or high. I opened and found the switches (heat regulator) were the problem.

The metal contact of the green board is broken because it's too thin.

enter image description here

Thus, no connection between #1 and #2 (picture below). The electric range could not turn off the burner when it reached the desired temperature.

A. The metal contact at #1 is sharp. I wonder if I can bend the tip to make better contact.

B. At #2, I'm thinking about putting some solder there.

Will these fixes cause potential problems?

I don't want to buy a new switch because it will definitely fail in the same manner. (I don't know why engineer designed it this way. If this is the case, I blame sale management)

enter image description here

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  • that little green card is the heater that warms the bi-metallic strip it probably gets fairly hot. you may be able to repair it with solder or it may get too hot for that.
    – Jasen
    Commented Dec 15, 2019 at 0:17

2 Answers 2

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OK, what you're suggesting will probably work. I have similar repairs on "ON & OFF" switches..BUT... The contact at #1 looks like a limiting device to break the circuit in an overheat situation. I wouldn't be messing with that. The problem as I see it is the burners wouldn't turn off. So if your fix doesn't work, the problem will return when you lest expect it..... Is it worth it? How old it the range? I'd be, and have done many times, buying a new switch. Many times the internal designs of these switches are improved and you'd never know it by the outside appearance so the existing problem you have might never occur again. My advice is to think twice about messing with range/oven switches. Good luck.

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  • It's a samsung glass top. The range is about 4 year old. The first switch stopped working about a year ago, the second switch about 6 months ago. An OEM switch is about $60, ebay aftermarket is $35. I've done some searching around and a lot of people have the problem.
    – alt
    Commented Dec 15, 2019 at 1:46
  • I didn't solder #2, just smooth it, bend #1 then put the cover back. It's working for now. Do you know when turning the burner on, you have to push the knob in, mine doesn't do that. So #1 and #2 make contact all the time before I did the fix.
    – alt
    Commented Dec 15, 2019 at 1:55
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I would go ahead and fix but observe proper operation after re-installing.

These switches have horrible designs. There is no limiting/safety circuit as the filament go to high and stays there.

I've the same problem with a Samsung glass top triple burner. Almost cause a fire as I expect the burner to be on low but went to high and stayed there... less then 2 years old.

New switch $150CDN - ridiculous. I've ordered a new switch and once replaced, I'll open the old one to see if fixable.

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