Would anybody know what sort of lock do I need based on this pictures? I'll dissemble it if that's impossible, but I wanted to avoid having to do the work twice and just buy the replacement.

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I'm trying to change the keys, but also have a working bolt. This is in the UK.

  • That appears to be a well made old lock. You could get it re-keyed professionally. – Jim Stewart Nov 26 '18 at 14:49
  • @JimStewart: the house was built in 1992. By old, are you saying it's older than that? – pupeno Nov 26 '18 at 15:00
  • Do they have locksmith in the UK? I’d call one over here, find one that’s been in business many years and they’ll probably have any parts your lock may need. He can also re-key the existing cylinder. – Tyson Nov 26 '18 at 15:26
  • @Tyson: of course we have locksmith, but the reason why I'm posting here is because I wanted to it myself. I've change a few locks and even cylinders in the past. – pupeno Nov 26 '18 at 15:27
  • The big point is the locksmith has parts! And can re-key without having to find that exact cylinder. – Tyson Nov 26 '18 at 15:36

That looks like a Euro cylinder lock. You can remove it by undoing one bolt in the edge of the door then insert the key, turn an eighth of a turn and pull the cylinder out. Then measure the lengths in the diagram below. Or just measure externally.

Euro Cylinder

You should get an anti-snap lock which means you need to specify which of the measurements applies to the outside facing end.

P.S. The outside end of the lock cylinder should not project from the surface of the surrounding faceplate, get a shorter one if you can (though they are only available in 5mm increments). This affects security.

P.P.S. Locks vary a lot in price but this lock is protecting all your belongings so it is probably worth spending extra on a good lock. Look for the TS007 3 Star standard and kitemark.

some cylinder locks

Top: 35/35 British Oval cylinder with thumb-turn (see also Scandinavian oval cylinders)
Middle: 50/40 Euro-profile cylinder (AKA Euro-cylinder)
Bottom: 0/35 Euro-profile half-cylinder


  • The threaded hole is for the retaining screw.
  • The middle lock has the cam (actuator) in-line with the hull, in this position the whole cylinder can be pulled out (if the screw has been removed).
  • There are blanking plugs in the holes which contain the key-pins, driver-pins and springs. These particular cylinders are not designed to be re-keyable.
  • The reason I have these loose and not in use is because they have no anti-snap features and are mostly trivial to pick also.

If you only want to use other keys, just change the cylinder from the cylinder lock. I am not sure how common they are in UK, but you should find them in any bigger utility stores.

  • I would like to get a working bolt as well, but even if I'm changing just the cylinder, which one should I buy? There are many: homebase.co.uk/search/… – pupeno Nov 26 '18 at 12:46
  • If you take off the inside plate and may be able to find out the manufacturer and details on the lock itself to get the info you need. You can also generally take just the cylinder to a lock smith and they'll rekey it for you to whatever key you want to use. – Micah Montoya Nov 26 '18 at 15:20

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