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A medium sized white pine fell on our house and punctured our roof in a few places, and also left a crack in what I believe is our ridge board (not beam). The board is a single 2x12, and from the research I've done it appears that:

  • Single 2x12 ridge board is cracked horizontally
  • Crack spans between 8-12 ft and is up to 1" wide
  • Roof structure has a 2x10 ties that the ceiling is below
  • No separate collar ties/rafter ties - appears to be just one in the middle
  • The roof shows now dip or visual sign of the crack, it's completely level

Given that this is a ridge board not a beam, does it need to be replaced? Could it be stabilized with heavy T straps or ridge straps instead?

The interior roof has cracks in various place so we'll likely be replacing it, so perhaps straps could be added after tearing out the roof? I have a gut feeling there has to be a way without ripping out the entire board.

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    You say the crack is up to an inch wide, but I don't see evidence of that in the photos. Have I misunderstood?
    – isherwood
    Commented Mar 7 at 14:31
  • By "interior roof," do you mean the rafters?
    – popham
    Commented Mar 8 at 0:46

2 Answers 2

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Many traditional hand-framed roofs have a board (often just a one-by) which serves mostly to hold position of the rafters, giving the carpenter something to attach them to during construction. That duty is later largely supplanted by the roof decking. It's ultimately a vestigial component in many cases, which is why a simple crack wouldn't be too concerning.

Therefore, the issue here isn't so much the cracked board. It's the sag resulting from the roof impact that opened the crack so wide. It presumably pushed the rafters outward at the wall line as well, or maybe moved the walls themselves. If it really was just a crack you could probably patch it together with plywood gussets, etc., but it's more than that. The large gap indicates displacement.

You need to do a larger investigation to determine what's sagging, out of plumb, gapped, etc. Then you can arrive at a suitable solution, which may include jacking up the ridge and refastening rafters, winching walls together, etc. You may want to get a local expert on site.

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  • Thank you! We have talked to a good local contractor, who was thinking of cutting out the top of each joist to replace the 2x12. The entire roof is being replaced as well, so they're thinking of doing it from the top. My question here is primarily to explore other options because the interior and exterior look very good. Commented Mar 7 at 20:02
  • The fasteners into the ridge board are the primary source of resistance against unbalanced loads on the roof. Snow drift is the big source of unbalanced load, but wind also causes it. A ridge strap or collar tie keeps everything drawn tight, so that the nails into the ridge board can maintain their necessary strength.
    – popham
    Commented Mar 8 at 0:41
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The International Residential Code has a roof rafter to ridge board item under the nailing schedule at IRC R602.3. It's item 7. The purpose of these nails is to transfer vertically oriented lateral load when there's more load on one rafter than on its twin. The language typically used is "unbalanced load." Snow drift and wind cause this loading to arise.

Excess demand on these nails probably contributed to the board splitting like it did. In that case, the capacity of these nail groups has diminished significantly. I'm not at all offended by the idea of depending on a deformed nail to still retain its full strength. I am, however, skeptical of verifiably restoring a nail's strength contribution after bending and splitting.

Optimistically assuming that there were no nails in the failure plane, there's still more bad news. There's also an issue of load paths between nails on opposite faces of the ridge board. If one side has 3 nails above the crack and 1 below but the other side has 1 above and 3 below, then the load has to move across the crack if all of the nails are going to fight their part of the loading. To design your proposed patch under the optimistic assumption, you would decide upon a worst case scenario for any obscured nails above and below the crack and bridge the crack with sufficient strength to carry the load across the crack.

Renailing the rafters to the ridge board is probably the easiest solution. If the entire nail schedule's nail count for both sides of the ridge board were installed entirely above or entirely below the crack, then you would still have a nice load path between each lightly loaded rafter and its heavily loaded twin. That's just the easiest way to state this solution pattern, though. Fixing upon a particular option from the nail schedule, toe nailed 3-10d common nails, for each pair of rafters, you need the same nail count above the crack on each side (2 above on each side, for instance) and the same nail count below the crack on each side (1 below on each side to complete the "2 above on each side" instance). In this configuration, each nail has a peer with identical strength on the other side of the ridge board, so there's a clean load path for its part of the necessary strength.

For your problem, I would treat any obscured edge nails as non-existant. For any toe nails that are more than, say, 1" from the split, I would treat those nails as still good and record their type ("10d common," for instance). I would then buy the recorded type nails (assuming that they're all the same type) and implement the count from the nail schedule's item 7 for toe nails under the recorded type.

This sort of solution is only worthwhile if there's otherwise no need to remove roof sheathing. Without the sheathing there, this is pretty easy to fix without involving an engineer. You can just replace two rafters worth of ridge board at a time. I would first cut away an alternating pattern of the ridge board. Two rafters worth stays, two goes, two stays, two goes, etc. After installing the replacement chunks, you would just repeat the pattern for the remaining split chunks.

Isherwood has some great advice on exploring the full scope of issues that you may be facing. I would also look for any splitting of the rafters. At the ends isn't terribly offensive, but splitting away from the ends is more interesting (the worst case split all the way through at midspan will cost a rafter 75% of its stiffness and probably something like 40% of its strength).

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  • Thanks! One rafter took the bulk of the tree damage and cracked, sistered that myself with lag bolts after jacking things back in place, and everything is actually quite level at the moment. For the nails, not a single one appears to have moved, but I realize the bend you mention would be within the wood. This may sound amateurish, but what about adding 12" 8x2 blocks to either side of the ridge board? Commented Mar 10 at 2:11
  • @Kevinleary, the splitting plane didn't go through nail locations? That doesn't sound plausible, as I don't understand why it split otherwise.
    – popham
    Commented Mar 10 at 8:30
  • @Kevinleary, anyway, your 2x8 blocks would work if the split isn't within 4 nail diameters of any nail. I would double that 4 diameters to account for chaotic stuff hidden inside the ridge board. For each rafter location you could choose any one of the IRC nail schedule's item 7 end-nail choices. Take 2/3 of that count. 3-10d box nails becomes 2-10d box nails, for instance. For each rafter you want this nail count installed twice, once above the split and once below the split.
    – popham
    Commented Mar 10 at 8:33
  • @Kevinleary, assuming a block between every pair of rafters, one nail for each block corner accomplishes the 2-10d box nails above and 2-10d box nails below. Technically blocking on just one face would be sufficient, but I would do both faces. Or maybe just one block per space, but alternating between faces.
    – popham
    Commented Mar 10 at 8:36
  • @Kevinleary, this assumes that the old nail connections still have full strength after splitting. Like I said, I find this implausible.
    – popham
    Commented Mar 10 at 8:39

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