With exposed NM-B, modern type manufactured after 2000, if you need to join two lengths of exposed NM-B wire then can you point out specific NEC sections, going from NEC ~2016 and later, where wording along with its interpretation, prohibits doing a mechanical connection of a black/red/white 14, 12, or 10 ga. wire followed by a 4% electrical silver solder and then using shrink tubing... for the shrink tubing that which is appropriate for a 90°C rating which i think is just about any (PVC, polyolefin, FEP), and then doing the same with NM-B behind drywall, instead of using a UL listed splice connector and used in accordance with NEC interpretation?
In this case specifically what in the NEC specifically would prohibit doing such a thing? And I am not talking about doing a haphazard mechanical+solder+insulation job; for example I have tested stranded wire by hanging on it from a rafter and the wire will fray and break anywhere other than a mechanical+solder joint (and even just a non-mechanical solder joint).
and for clarification: https://forums.mikeholt.com/threads/splice-kit-approved-for-behind-walls.128894/
put a screw through a wall and straight into a wire. They called out an electrician... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEDHvVPm7fU
any kind of termination can fail if not done properly
NM splice demonstration
< https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWQCE_mGyFk
being realistic, NM wire inside a wall can get damage. So when it does, everyone here seems to always be saying... have to replace the entire run of NM you can't have a splice inside a wall. Really?
oh, and my point for asking... if "code" NM splicing requires a good mechanical connection of copper to copper for conductivity (which I don't disagree with) then... it doesn't look like those UL listed splice kits have copper connectors within that pierce the insulation to make the connection to the copper wire. Thus, I know "I could" perform a better slice, in many ways.