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The carport was enclosed but no additional concrete was poured. The sill was screwed directly into the concrete. As a result of being so close to to ground, water has come in under it about 2-3 inches. I was wondering what would be the most cost efficient method to remedy this problem? Could we put water proofing membrane around the sill and bottom of the framing studs then pour concrete or cinder block on the exterior, making the foundation higher (as it should have been prior to construction) even though it's only the perimeter that is higher? Please help.

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    Hello, and welcome to Stack Exchange. Where are you located? Could you post some photos? (Edit this into your original question.) – Daniel Griscom Aug 19 '16 at 11:55
  • It sounds like the carport was not originally designed to be enclosed. If you pour on the exterior you may trap water in side the wall. the best way might be to put in temporary supports and pull the wall and install a small stem wall on top of the pad. this would be a large job for a DIY project but would fix the problem for good. – Ed Beal Aug 19 '16 at 13:02
  • What's the source of the water? Guttering ($$$) and/or a French Drain System ($$$$-$$$$$) might be cheaper, or better, than mud-jacking (guaranteed $$$$$) the building.... – Kevin_Kinsey Aug 22 '16 at 18:47
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2-3 inch deep water that could run out the garage door, that is unbelievable. Dig a sloping trench around the perimeter. Can be as simple as that, or the full monty.

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    I think they're saying that water intrudes 2-3 inches from the enclosure wall (which indicates the carpet is wicking water), not that the water is 2-3 inches deep – Machavity May 3 '17 at 12:20
  • carPORT, not carPET. – cathode Feb 14 '18 at 17:40
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I would consiter putting in a temporary wall a foot back. Remove the existing wall Or at least the rotted wood cut it off at the bottom and pour a new stem wall that is taller. With the best method being to dig a new footing and put some perf pipe in a sock at the edge of the footing for drainage (Basicly a French drain). With a new stem wall the water won't be able to rot out the sill plate, with drainage the wall should not weep.

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I had this same issue when I built a workshop on-grade on an existing slab. The solution I used was to take a piece of 1" x 4" L-flashing, lay down a thick bead of asphalt emulsion sealant on the concrete pad at the exterior, and tuck the tall leg under the siding of the structure, and the short leg was set into the 'bed' of asphalt emulsion sealant. I then put more sealant over the edge of the metal and troweled it smooth.

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