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Even in my moderate climate zone this dreaded winter starts and one room in particular (the living room) drives me nuts: It feels so terribly cold, I can "feel" small drafts but no obvious source. The most obvious one are the windows though and just holding my hand close to the windows I can feel a cold draft coming towards me ... and this with a measly 55-60F outside.

It is a 100 year old house but has dual pane retrofit vinyl windows (I think from the 90s or 2000s):

Retrofit Window

Here is another zoom:

Zoom

I really don't see any obvious holes or issues. It is always suggested to "caulk around windows" but where? I can buy a foam pad and put it under the sash. But I don't think this is the main issue, it's not just from under the bottom sash.

Where could this window be leaking air and short or replacement, what is the most efficient way to seal it? We never open these windows so it could be a solution that does not require the sashes to be movable.

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  • there does not have to be an actual leak for heat to transfer from inside to outside ... heat passes through glass fairly easily
    – jsotola
    Commented Nov 1 at 18:00
  • Usually you want to seal from the outside. Possible the leaks/drafts are coming from around the frame(the part the trim is hiding). You might want to carefully remove the trim and check. Spray foam for windows is made for this.
    – crip659
    Commented Nov 1 at 18:03
  • Yes but I’m feeling drafts and it’s most pronounced in this one room. While I’m aware that modern windows can leak and don’t have high R value either, it’s still a fairly modern 2pane, not 1pane. Regardless, I’d like to do whatever can mitigate it best.
    – divB
    Commented Nov 1 at 18:04
  • @crip659 can I remove the trim without destroying the wall and having to repaint the entire room? Looks pretty well integrated to me: imgur.com/a/g13uRuy
    – divB
    Commented Nov 1 at 18:08
  • @crip659 if exterior, exactly same question applies: imgur.com/a/czBvlJ6 Looks pretty good to me. No obvious gaps, holes, crack. So where would I caulk?
    – divB
    Commented Nov 1 at 18:09

2 Answers 2

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There are several possible issues here.

  1. Though the windows are sealed units, you are feeling convection currents from warm air at the top of the room being cooled and dropping to the floor. This is unlikely as this is happening at a modest 60F.

  2. You have air infiltration through the window unit itself. Double Hung windows are notorious for their air infiltration. You can test this by covering the inside of the entire window with plastic. If the plastic billows in, this indicates poor wiping seals or seal contact on the sashes. Close inspection is then required to check for worn weatherstripping or missing weatherstripping plugs that close gaps where the two sashes meet.

  3. You have air infiltration through the window frame. These windows appear to be inserts into the existing casing. You are then at the mercy of how leaky the wall is that contains the window frame. You may be able to mitigate this somewhat by removing the interior trim around the window frame and using expanding foam to seal between the rough stud opening and the window frame. You should also make sure that the exterior caulking is in good condition around the window frame as well as the window insert.

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  • Thanks! Re1: at night, inside it’s ~60F inside and outside 50-60F. Yesterday at 10pm 55F outside and 65F inside. It was unbearable and felt super drafty. is there a way to measure convection currents? I have a thermal camera but everything just looks the same with it.
    – divB
    Commented Nov 1 at 20:58
  • Re 2: it’s actually single hung. Good idea to test. Is there a specific type of plastic that I should consider? Fix plastic with scotch tape? And where to fix it? On the window frame? Can I even fix it on the trim for testing?
    – divB
    Commented Nov 1 at 21:01
  • @divB For plastic, something like sandwich/food wrap,cling wrap, that you have in your kitchen.
    – crip659
    Commented Nov 1 at 22:25
  • For this size window, find the cheapest polyethylene drop sheet you can find and cut to the size of the window. Tape all of the edges with painter's tape. Commented Nov 1 at 22:52
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You can get "heat shrink film window insulation kits" which are best applied to the outer edge of the window frame (inside the house) to catch as many of the "window to frame" leaks as possible. The film is very clear and heat-shrinks to a tight fit which gives good clarity and reduces the appearance of having a cheap drop cloth over your window. It comes with doublestick tape. Our usual approach was to buy a cheaper kit for the film (ignoring the tape it came with) and 3M tape for the tape, rather than a 3M kit. YMMV.

You'd be stuck without being able to open the window or adjust that internal shutter for the heating season, but this is a common tradeoff. Installed carefully they don't look too bad, and they cost a lot less than new windows. I did that on nearly every rental in college, as they usually were "renter pays for heat and landlord can't be bothered to fix the leaky windows."

In a more general approach to finding drafts not at windows only, you can have a "blower door test" done to quantify and identify your leaks, or you can just look for places in need of caulking or re-caulking outside and address them.

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  • I really like this answer and will do that. All these windows we never open and they are even behind plantation shutters so no big deal with the plastic. I’ll still leave my check mark on DelphicOracles answer because it’s more comprehensive
    – divB
    Commented Nov 3 at 2:48
  • Re door blower test: that’s on my bucket list for long time. But it’s expensive and I’m afraid I won’t learn much. I think they’ll just give me the ACH50 without investigating where EXACTLY air infiltrates. I know already my house is leaky like a barn but where the lowest hanging fruits are I’m not sure. I think the windows is a large part though
    – divB
    Commented Nov 3 at 2:52

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