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We have a unique multi-level kitchen island design, and without going to specifications of it, I am curious to know if there are any issues with the cabinets that make up the island can be less than 3.5" above the floor (standard toe kick height). Note that the island is made up of a combination of base and wall cabinets, and while we would need to cut the bottom of the base cabinets, the wall cabinets would go over a frame made of framing lumber, like 2x3s, making the cabinets be 2.5" above the floor and allowing us to use window casing as base molding. There not be any toe kick space.

In case you are wondering, the top of the counters will vary between standard 36" and 42" for bar height.

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    Avoid the temptation to skip toe spaces completely. Having to subtly lean over the bench will aggravate backs/spines. You'll definitely notice it over time.
    – Criggie
    Commented Oct 2 at 9:41
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    Tip: get your casing/ baseboard in real wood — not mdf — as it’ll resist moisture.
    – Aloysius Defenestrate
    Commented Oct 2 at 11:43

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The only "rules" are regarding countertop height for accessibility, and even that (except in a commercial kitchen) is subjective. The advantage of a consistent height is a consistent look - i.e., if you have some 2.5" next to 3.5" it may look funny. If the 2.5" and 3.5" are along different walls then nobody will even notice.

That being said, I wouldn't go too low - e.g., less than 1". That's because kitchen floors get wet, both accidentally and deliberately (mopping) and you want to keep the bottom shelf of the cabinets dry. But other than, it is entirely up to you.

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    Another minimum value for the toe kick height is whatever is needed to get a broom, mop, or vaccuum foot in there.
    – Criggie
    Commented Oct 2 at 9:39
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    I agree, and it's often the case that ends of peninsulas, panels under bar top extensions, and other areas don't have toe recesses anyway. They're simply not required.
    – isherwood
    Commented Oct 2 at 14:05
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    And another reason is if you have heaters in there - IKEA dropped the plinth height on theirs a few years ago and it was very hard to find heaters to fit, but my kitchen relies on one (blown air, heat from the hot-water central heating) to not be freezing
    – Chris H
    Commented Oct 2 at 14:05
  • Another reason to have at least a 1.75 inch (plus toe/shoe height) tall toe space: Preventing those squishy and waterproof combo mats from sticking out excessively into your kitchen (may cause another person who's walking around you to trip). Those mats are extremely underrated on your knees and feet when it comes to standing 45 minutes at the sink scrubbing dishes or an annoying pot/pan.
    – Stev
    Commented Oct 3 at 0:15
  • So, this is an island update, we have an existing island built with regular base cabinets. We are expanding using a combination of wall and vanity base cabinets, which will be bar height, and to make it all work, we need to either have a lower platform (for the wall cabinets) or trim the base cabinets on the bottom. There will likely not be actual toe kick space, just wrap around base molding.
    – 0pt1m1z3
    Commented Oct 3 at 12:49
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In my campervan I've got a kitchen built from wall units stood off the floor on 18mm (finished dimension, approx 3/4") wooden battens. They're mainly to stop the doors scraping on the floor/catching on the rug.

I've never found the lack of space for my toes an issue, even with big feet, and I do cook properly in there. That said I have to stoop slightly anyway for the ceiling height except under the skylight.

Cleaning is a bit of a pain, but I don't have to do it often in the van. Most effective is to get down on my knees and use either the crevice nozzle/brush on a vacuum cleaner, or a brush, followed by a damp cloth. In a well-used kitchen at home, this could get annoying pretty fast. In that case either no gap or a gap that fits your preferred cleaning tools would be better than a small gap.

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