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frame and jambdoor hitting jambAn exterior door is hitting the closing side of the jamb. The door hits the jamb a foot down from the top of the frame. The jamb and door are level on all sides. The gap on the top hinge is greater than the gap for the bottom hinge. 2 inch screws are in the hinges. The door doesn't latch properly unless the door is lifted up by the knob.

gap bottom of door

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3
  • Looks like your jamb is bowed.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Sep 19 at 15:54
  • If you can lift the door by the knob, the door isn't securely fastened to the jab through the hinges. Check the mounting.
    – JACK
    Commented Sep 19 at 15:55
  • to be specific the door doesn't lift just the knob. think its been loosened by the multiple impacts.
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 19 at 16:40

2 Answers 2

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Get extra long screws, maybe 4". Remove the screws currently holding the top hinge. With an impact driver, insert the extra long screws, making sure you are biting into the house framing studs. This should pull this part of the door and fix the issue.

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  • I tried tightening the screws 2.5inch and the door shuts a few times before hitting the jamb again. Seems like the frame can't hold the weight of the door.
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 20 at 17:47
  • This is why you need very long screws, so that you reach the framing. It's possible that there is a lot of space between the jamb and the frame, when the shims were installed, and that you are not reaching the frame. A frame will definitely hold a door. The front door of my house is so large and heavy, it takes two people to hold it, and the hinge screws hold it.
    – Cheery
    Commented Sep 20 at 19:13
  • I removed the trim over the jamb and frame uploaded a picture. Looks like the screws are going into particle board not into the frame of the house.
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 20 at 19:44
  • The frame is just under the yellow paint, at the edge of the drywall. The drywall is attached to the frame.
    – Cheery
    Commented Sep 20 at 19:45
  • Got it I'll try 4" screws
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 20 at 20:52
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I am going to give the same answer pretty much, but with a bit more elaboration.

You do need to use longer screws than what is in the door right now. The originals will probably be oly 3/4" to 1" long at best. There are typically 3 or 4 screws in each hinge. whether it has 3 or 4 screws, the one screw (for 3 screw hinges) or 2 screws (for 4 screw hinges) closest to the door stop and weatherstripping, is the only hole(s) that will get you into the framing. The other 2 will only have the screws going into the drywall or plaster and it will actually hold less that the screws that are in there now. There is a chance all you need to do is tighten the screws that are there and it may fix the issue, but it may come back.

Whenever I set doors in a home I use 2 1/2" long screws, any longer is way overkill, it doesn't do you any better job, it's just more difficult to run in that far, and if it gets too difficult, it can twist and break off. Then you will have another problem to deal with. There are exceptions, but it will become evident when you start driving the 2 1/2" screws.

If you run even one screw in the top and middle hinge that should get your door back where it belongs. Careful, if the space behind the jamb allows it, you can move it too far and "hinge bind" the door. That is what happens when you draw the jamb in one place only and the gap closes up to nothing, usually at the top corner and the door will resist closing completely.

Another issue the door has is where it is hitting now. There is a bulge in the jamb there and if it is possible there can be a screw driven at the middle of the high spot to draw that hump in. I would try to hide the screw under the flap of the weatherstripping, if you have the vinyl/foam compression type.

The last thing that would help it to file the bottom of the hole of the keeper that the door bolt goes into to keep the door closed. Just the bottom round portion, not the back nor front. That is the is edge you are lifting the door over when you pull up to get it to latch. It may work without doing anything to it since the hinge fix may cure it, but it is so close to doing it again, I would file about 1/16" out of it to give it some more room.

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  • Originally all the door hinges had 3/4 inch screws. I replaced the top and middle hinge with 2.5 inch screws and the door shut correctly for about 3 months before it starting having the same problem it does now. I don't see any bulge in the door jamb and using a two-foot level shows everything is level.
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 20 at 18:41
  • Then you will need to use the 4" screws. The "filler" material cannot be depended upon. Again to stress the point, the screws near the door stop are the only ones that will make it to the framing. The ones close to the barrel of the hinge will only go into the wall material.
    – Jack
    Commented Sep 20 at 19:55
  • Got it I'll try that
    – Robert
    Commented Sep 20 at 20:52
  • @Robert if you don't see any bulge in the (left) jamb, do you see one in the door? Because your 2nd photo definitely shows one somewhere.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Sep 21 at 14:15
  • In addition, a 2' level is not a long enough level to gauge the plumb of a door jamb. There is a bulge in the latch side, the way the light does not come through that one portion, and your mention of the door sticking there is a testimony of that. FWIW, a door does not have to be exactly plumb. It really is better if the jambs were straight. That is where a longer level proves more valuable, then check the jamb in 3 places, top middle and bottom. You most likely will see the bubble change positions ever so slightly.
    – Jack
    Commented Sep 21 at 14:37

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