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I have to rewire the line-side conductors on this disconnect switch to reach breakers in my new panel. The line-side conductors exit through the left side of the switch. The 50A disconnect was installed by my solar installer.

I have 2 questions:

1: Should I crimp ferrules on the the stranded #6 and #8 conductors (load side is #8, line side is #6)? As you can see in the picture below, the screw does not capture a lot of the strands. The lugs are rated for 14 - 1/0. If so, are there any ferrules where I don't need an expensive (>$50) crimper? Any other suggestions on how to best land these conductors?

2: The grounding conductors are currently crimped. I don't have that crimping tool. Would it be acceptable to tap a hole for a lay-in lug and connect the load-side ground wire to that new lug and get rid of the crimped connection?

Any other things I should be looking out for while re-wiring this?

Thanks

stranded conductors under lug Overview of disconnect switch Detail of bottom of disconnect switch

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  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica OK, will give it a try with more twisting. Any input on the other question related to adding a lug for the grounding conductor without having to redo the crimped splice?
    – Christian K
    Commented Apr 18 at 0:24
  • @ChristianK yeah that's fine. For it to bond to the case, it either needs to be bolt-and-nut, or the attaching screw needs to have -32 or finer thread pitch e.g. 10-32. A 10-32 drill/tap pair ($6) and a tap handle ($3) is part of my kit.
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Apr 18 at 1:31

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Your real problem is the neutral wires were let to splay all over the place instead of being tightly twisted before you put them in. I would gather them up, twist good-n-plenty and give it another try. We don't generally use ferrules in North America, equipment isn't tested or approved for them, and not sure where you even get UL listed ferrules.

For it to bond to the case, it either needs to be bolt-and-nut and scrape the paint there... or the attaching screw needs to have -32 or finer thread pitch e.g. 10-32. A 10-32 drill/tap pair ($6) and a tap handle ($3) is part of my kit. Regardless, this cannot be into a knockout, it needs to be in a solid part of the disconnect. I would consider side or back to reduce rust from standing water and condensate.

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  • Great, I was planning to use a 10-32 drill/tap bit. Didn't realize 32 tpi was required, good to know.
    – Christian K
    Commented Apr 18 at 1:46

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