I recently replaced a chain pull light fixture in my closet with a recessed light. Instead of a chain pull, I installed a new switch. The light fixture had two cables coming in. Each had a black, white, and copper wire. I ran new romex from the new switch box to the light fixture and tied the wires together based on color. When turning the breaker on, the light comes on but can’t be turned off with the switch.
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3Anywhere that has adopted NEC2011 or later, you need /3 cable (white-red-black-ground) for a switch loop. And "matching colors" is NOT how electricity is done, particularly in switch loops. Go check out a book from the library on basic home wiring (but if it's old, find a newer reference for switch loop wiring.)– EcnerwalCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 12:33
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1How were the wires connected prior to replacing the fixture?– FreeManCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 13:29
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2Hopefully you've learned that you're not qualified to do electrical work. Please take Ecnerwal's advice and do some learning before undertaking any more wiring projects. At a bare minimum you should've wired it as the old light was. You also need to know how to make secure connections so you don't start a fire.– isherwoodCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 14:05
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1 Answer
You connected:
- Incoming black to light black to switch black
- Incoming white to light white to switch white
That results in the light always on. the switch is parallel to the light and has no effect.
What you need to do is:
- Figure out which cable at the light is "incoming". Disconnect the blacks from each other. Use a non-contact voltage tester to see which one is hot. That's the "incoming" cable.
- Connect incoming black to switch white. Mark the switch white (in light fixture box and in switch box) with black tape.
- Connect incoming white to light white.
- Connect switch black to light black.
But you have another problem. Unless you are in Kansas or Indiana, your state is on a version of the NEC which requires neutral in new switch boxes. So you have to replace the 2-wire Romex with 3-wire (black/red/white). And then the wiring becomes:
- Connect incoming black to switch black.
- Connect incoming white to switch white and light white.
- Connect switch red to light black.
- In the switch box, cap the white neutral wire. You may need it someday if you add a smart switch.
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3a switch that is parallel to a light would trip the breaker whenever the switch is turned on– jsotolaCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 5:31
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@jsotola You're right! Which makes me wonder now how exactly the switch was connected. Because if it was black to hot & light black, white to neutral & light neutral, then when the switch is on it would be a dead short. Commented Dec 19, 2023 at 5:50
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1Perhaps it's a smart switch with a white wire, and a switched hot wire not connected to anything given the lack of proper switch loop wiring.– EcnerwalCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 12:35
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1@jsotola OP doesn't mention tying the wires to the switch. They may be tied together with an unconnected switch as a faceplate.– fectinCommented Dec 19, 2023 at 13:39
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Am I correct to understand that the neutral thing is just to support 'smart switches' and not for any safety reason whatsoever? If so, I get it but in an older home, I think it's a bit ridiculous to have to pull wires in order to support something you don't want or need. Commented Dec 19, 2023 at 17:14