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We are in process of re-insulating our roof by removing roofing, decking and accessing the cavity between rafters from above. The roofer told us initially that the rafters in the vaulted ceiling areas were only 2x8, so anticipated filling the gap with closed cell spray foam (R-7.5/in) - local code requires R-60 or as close as you can get. However, once the roofer got the sheeting off, he reported seeing 2x12 rafters. Using ~8" of closed cell spray foam over sheet rock, we are left with a ~3" air gap between foam and decking. We are in Colorado.

Does this air gap need to be ventilated? (None exists currently.)

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    What is the pitch of this roof? What is the design of the roof? A single plane? Ridge in the center? Two non-intersecting planes where one overhangs the other? Could air be admitted on one end and exhausted on the other end of each rafter cavity? My initial thought is that it should be vented. Commented Sep 7, 2023 at 1:55
  • What's your ground snow loading like? Commented Sep 7, 2023 at 2:23
  • What is the roofing material? shingles? asphalt or metal? Standing seam metal roof? Commented Sep 7, 2023 at 4:05

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If you have an air gap above the insulation, it must be ventilated. The excess heat must have some place to go. Preferably through a ventilated ridge cap, and continuous soffit vents at the overhangs. If you were to spray the foam to the roof sheathing, so no void was present, then the venting is not need since there is no place for heat to build, or moisture as mentioned in another answer. 2 very important considerations.

Joe Lstiburek is the building science guru. He was a consultant for the company I worked for in Maryland for a time, may still be. I believe this is where the ventilation details came from regarding foam, at least when it is sprayed onto the roof sheathing, not onto the drywall.

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I think each rafter cavity should be vented and well vented at that.

My thinking is that in cold weather moisture from the living space will enter the edge of each rafter and migrate inside the rafters toward the cold outside edges. The rafters must have a place for the moisture to be extracted.

Without ventilation on the outer edges the moisture level would rise in the cold outer edges of the rafters. These should have air flowing over the sides of the outer edges to dry them out.

In the a/c season the interior humidity should be low and no moisture from the interior should enter the edges of the rafters. If moisture would enter from the outside due to humidity or a roof leak, a ventilated air gap under the roof decking would be needed and should be effective in drying out the rafters.

You should Google Joseph Lstiburek building science. Lstiburek's videos are painful to sit through but he is considered a guru in managing moisture in highly insulated buildings. In one video he describes how hyperinsulation has been the cause of rotting of roof structure.

In particular, Lstiburek maintains that moisture moves up in buildings and will collect at the top unless there is a means of drying to the outside at the top. He stresses that the building materials must have a path to allow drying. I think it would be wrong to fill up the remaining 3" under the roof decking with anything. Use these spaces as paths for air flow for drying of the rafters and the underside of the decking.

https://youtu.be/pWYjwZq_1Ao?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/zhkGcklWB_Q?feature=shared

EDIT

After watching some of these videos I am confused. Lstiburek indicates that introducing warm moist air into the spaces under the decking between the rafters would add moisture to the rafters rather than drying them out. In the a/c season the rafters might get cold all the way from the indside to the roof deck. Warm moist outside air flowing over them might condense water onto the top 3" of the rafters. Of course in Colorado the air in the summer might be very low in humidity so this air would not be carrying moisture.

Lstiburek is telling Rissinger that dehumidifed air from the conditioned space must be injected into Rissinger's conditioned attic.

In the present case the equivalent would be accomplished by dehumidified air being carried in tubing (I guess from the conditioned space) into each rafter cavity on one end and allowed to flow back into the conditioned space on the other end.

Of course, the present case is different in that the open space is between the decking and the outside (top) of insulation. Air circulated into that space would pick up a lot of heat in the summer. So the best thing would be to vent it to the outside rather than recirculate back into the conditioned space. This means you would have vents to the outside on only one end of each rafter cavity.

However, the practical problems of boring through the drywall ceiling and through 8" of closed cell foam in each rafter cavity to pump in dry air are so great that the idea seems ridiculous.

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I also live in Colorado. While using Closed Cell Spray Polyurethane Foam in a Cathedral Vault; you do NOT need to include an "air gap". I understand that if you installed 8" of SPF, a natural 4" air gap would occur. This seems like a good idea, but it's NOT. Spray Polyurethane Foam is a very flammable product, which is why it cannot be left exposed anywhere in a home other than basement or crawl space Boxsills/Rimjoists.(Perimeter of house between floor joists) It would be a fire hazard and fail an inspection by a good inspector. SPF always needs to be touching drywall or something that disallows any airspace against it.... UNLESS a flash barrier is installed against it. This can be achieved with spray liquids, facing products, etc. The best thing to do is save money and install a HYBRID system with LESS SPF... filling the rest of the cavity with a fiberglass batt. 6" SPF = (R42) + 6" (R19) batt = R61. Chuck Davis The INSULATION Guys

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  • The problem with your approach is that if you sprayfoam the whole cavity in a high ground snow load area, you'll get enough snow on your roof for its own inherent R-value (about R-1 per inch) to allow the snow at the roof deck to rise above freezing, melt, and then refreeze = the dreaded ice dam. Best solution is to use an air gapped overdeck as described in BSI-046. Commented Apr 13 at 3:10

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