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I am moving my range. I need an extra 4 feet. It is very difficult to run new wire. It is 8 gauge aluminum wire (says on sleeve 2-8). Can I connect 6 gauge aluminum to the 8 gauge aluminum in a junction box for the extra 4 feet?

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  • Will that junction box with the splice be accessible or buried in a wall cavity?
    – JPhi1618
    Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 19:15
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    – Ack
    Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 19:41
  • The junction box will be accessible in the basement ceiling.
    – Bob
    Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 19:51
  • Then yes, you can. Make sure to use connectors approved for aluminum conductors, I would use what are called "Polaris" connectors. Polaris is a brand name, there are others. But before you do, make sure the terminals on the range will accept #6 conductors.
    – JRaef
    Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 20:32
  • @JRaef You should type this up as an answer.
    – JACK
    Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 20:35

2 Answers 2

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Yeah, your plan to splice in a junction box in the basement is fine. The junction box will need 32 cubic inches, so I'd consider a 4-11/16" square box as a minimum. JRaef's idea of a Polaris connector is the right concept, but you'll be better off with a "mini-Polaris" such as a MAC Block.

Upsizing to #6 wire for the last 4 feet buys you nothing. You can just stay with 8 AWG aluminum.

8-2 cable is also not legal for ranges (unless it is SEU cable with a ground in individual strands that spiral around the outside of the conductors. There have been a fair number of incidents of installers using 8-2+ground cable illegally. These cables have a single ground wire that is just a normal stranded wire like the conductors.

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    You can run 40A on 8AWG Al, but you need 75degC terminations to do so. Commented Apr 6, 2020 at 23:00
  • @ThreePhaseEel Oh, snap! I was sure it was one of those sizes that got a love letter from 240.4(D). But I guess not. Commented Apr 7, 2020 at 0:48
  • @Harper-ReinstateMonica -- 8AWG Al indeed is beyond the reach of 240.4(D) Commented Apr 7, 2020 at 0:58
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Too less power/AWG wiring for the kitchen range seems to be a standard problem.

Just to ignore the code could end in serious problems (insurance, law).

It could be solved by operating a low power range, running new wires/panels, using gas as proposed by Harper or by switching to 2 separate devices, i.e. a combination (hot air/ grill / microwave) oven and induction plates. The last solution does have many advantages.

More details are here: need-a-new-range-but-only-have-30-amps

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