0

My kitchen island has a wire for power. Surprisingly, nothing is connected to it so I'm going to install a power outlet.

I've replaced power outlets for walls before and generally the rear where you stick the wires in are exposed (because it's inside the wall).

However, this one will be inside the cabinet. I don't want anyone to be able to accidentally touch the back of the power outlet.

Is there anything I can buy that'll cover the back?

6
  • You must determine whether the wire to the island is connected to a source of power. And you must find out which circuit breaker in your electrical panel (aka fuse box) protects the circuit this wire in on. You must turn off that breaker to safely work on installing the receptacle and the box that contains it. Get a non-contact voltage tester like this one homedepot.com/p/…-PIPHorizontal2_rr--206995387--100661787--N Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 10:02
  • Where is this--state and city? Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 10:04
  • Do you want the receptacle to be on top of the counter of the island or on the side? If on the top, do you want it in a pod which projects above the counter or do you want it recessed into the surface? A projecting pod removes the possibility of spills getting into the receptacle and may be required by your local code. A picture of the island would be helpful. Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 10:25
  • Also get a plug in circuit tester like this one homedepot.com/p/… Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 10:28
  • 2
    You have to use junction boxes. Always.. Wire disappearing into the hollows of the wall is only allowed for low voltage stuff (ethernet, coax, phone, doorbell, thermostat). Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 15:48

4 Answers 4

4

You need to mount an electrical box to the wall of the cabinet and put the outlet inside it.

If you can't easily do the work inside the cabinet, you can use a thin surface mount box on the outside. The box screws to the cabinet wall, and you drill a hole through the cabinet wall behind the box to feed the wire into the box. A standard wall plate goes over the outlets.

Here are a couples of examples from Home Depot:

Non-metallic example: (this one happens to come complete with outlet and coverplate)

enter image description here

Metal example:

enter image description here

As DrMoishe Pippik points out, a kitchen outlet needs to be GFCI protected. If the wire was pre-run, it should come from a GFCI source, perhaps one of the protected kitchen outlets. You could check this by temporarily connecting a load, like a light, or a voltmeter, and tripping the kitchen GFCI outlets with the test button. There are also inexpensive outlet testers that have a built-in GFCI test button. If the line is protected somewhere else, the button will trip it (and then you can search for its location, like in the garage or basement). If the wire is not protected, use a GFCI outlet on the cabinet.

2

Most electric codes require wiring devices be mounted in junction boxes. You should consult the codes in your location. Below is a nonmetallic box, which might or might not be acceptable. From the tenor of the question, it seems you might want help in wiring this correctly -- mistakes can be fatal to an appliance user. BTW, in a kitchen, GFCI outlets are recommended. Outlet Box

4
  • The correct non-metallic box is likely designated “old work”, with different mounting method, than the “new construction” box you have pictured. The difference is how the box attaches. Also I wouldn’t use the cheesey blue plastic crap for this application. Better is fiberglass, best for this application is likely metal, with metal clad cable inside the cabinet.
    – Tyson
    Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 13:02
  • I would recommend a metallic box. They're not any more expensive, least not at Menards, have lots of holes for mounting with screws, and I for one prefer junction boxes that are not flammable and that will ground loose wires rather than leave them to sizzle. Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 15:47
  • GFCI outlets meaning a GFCI+receptacle combo device, are never, ever, required or recommended. GFCI protection is required and recommended, but that can - and should - be provided by a GFCI device in a remote location. Putting a GFCI "outlet" in every location is very redundant, and is only ever done to placate very dumb home inspectors. Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 15:53
  • If this kitchen is old, with bare wires, my guess is that it has no GFCI protection. Commented Jul 15, 2018 at 17:28
1

In this case 1/2" to 3 1/4" car flex and appropriate male and female connector along with a strap or two to fasten the flex to the interior wall of island.

-1

As far as I can tell no one has tried to answer the OP's question. Let me try: I have the same predicament and the only thing I found was Blue Sea 4026 AC isolation cover, but they are like $25-30 each. Basically a 5 sided platic box with screw tabs. I used them on my sailboat and they're sturdy, and are nicely rounded. They served more to prevent accidental nicks and scrapes than to protect from shock. They also sell a larger size.

Your Answer

By clicking “Post Your Answer”, you agree to our terms of service and acknowledge you have read our privacy policy.

Not the answer you're looking for? Browse other questions tagged or ask your own question.