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My kitchen island has a wire for power. Surprisingly, nothing is connected to it so I'm going to install a power outlet.

I've replaced power outlets for walls before and generally the rear where you stick the wires in are exposed (because it's inside the wall).

However, this one will be inside the cabinet. I don't want anyone to be able to accidentally touch the back of the power outlet.

Is there anything I can buy that'll cover the back?

  • You must determine whether the wire to the island is connected to a source of power. And you must find out which circuit breaker in your electrical panel (aka fuse box) protects the circuit this wire in on. You must turn off that breaker to safely work on installing the receptacle and the box that contains it. Get a non-contact voltage tester like this one homedepot.com/p/…-PIPHorizontal2_rr--206995387--100661787--N – Jim Stewart Jul 15 '18 at 10:02
  • Where is this--state and city? – Jim Stewart Jul 15 '18 at 10:04
  • Do you want the receptacle to be on top of the counter of the island or on the side? If on the top, do you want it in a pod which projects above the counter or do you want it recessed into the surface? A projecting pod removes the possibility of spills getting into the receptacle and may be required by your local code. A picture of the island would be helpful. – Jim Stewart Jul 15 '18 at 10:25
  • Also get a plug in circuit tester like this one homedepot.com/p/… – Jim Stewart Jul 15 '18 at 10:28
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    You have to use junction boxes. Always.. Wire disappearing into the hollows of the wall is only allowed for low voltage stuff (ethernet, coax, phone, doorbell, thermostat). – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 15 '18 at 15:48
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You need to mount an electrical box to the wall of the cabinet and put the outlet inside it.

If you can't easily do the work inside the cabinet, you can use a thin surface mount box on the outside. The box screws to the cabinet wall, and you drill a hole through the cabinet wall behind the box to feed the wire into the box. A standard wall plate goes over the outlets.

Here are a couples of examples from Home Depot:

Non-metallic example: (this one happens to come complete with outlet and coverplate)

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Metal example:

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As DrMoishe Pippik points out, a kitchen outlet needs to be GFCI protected. If the wire was pre-run, it should come from a GFCI source, perhaps one of the protected kitchen outlets. You could check this by temporarily connecting a load, like a light, or a voltmeter, and tripping the kitchen GFCI outlets with the test button. There are also inexpensive outlet testers that have a built-in GFCI test button. If the line is protected somewhere else, the button will trip it (and then you can search for its location, like in the garage or basement). If the wire is not protected, use a GFCI outlet on the cabinet.

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Most electric codes require wiring devices be mounted in junction boxes. You should consult the codes in your location. Below is a nonmetallic box, which might or might not be acceptable. From the tenor of the question, it seems you might want help in wiring this correctly -- mistakes can be fatal to an appliance user. BTW, in a kitchen, GFCI outlets are recommended. Outlet Box

  • The correct non-metallic box is likely designated “old work”, with different mounting method, than the “new construction” box you have pictured. The difference is how the box attaches. Also I wouldn’t use the cheesey blue plastic crap for this application. Better is fiberglass, best for this application is likely metal, with metal clad cable inside the cabinet. – Tyson Jul 15 '18 at 13:02
  • I would recommend a metallic box. They're not any more expensive, least not at Menards, have lots of holes for mounting with screws, and I for one prefer junction boxes that are not flammable and that will ground loose wires rather than leave them to sizzle. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 15 '18 at 15:47
  • GFCI outlets meaning a GFCI+receptacle combo device, are never, ever, required or recommended. GFCI protection is required and recommended, but that can - and should - be provided by a GFCI device in a remote location. Putting a GFCI "outlet" in every location is very redundant, and is only ever done to placate very dumb home inspectors. – Harper - Reinstate Monica Jul 15 '18 at 15:53
  • If this kitchen is old, with bare wires, my guess is that it has no GFCI protection. – DrMoishe Pippik Jul 15 '18 at 17:28
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In this case 1/2" to 3 1/4" car flex and appropriate male and female connector along with a strap or two to fasten the flex to the interior wall of island.

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