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I'm trying to replace a normal outlet with a GFCI. I have an outlet where there are two black wires, two red wires, one white wire and ground (copper).

One black and one red are hot wires and other black and red set is neutral.

Appreciate all the help if someone can help me understand which wires will go in Line and Load side.

The pictures are of the old non-GFCI outlet.

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enter image description here

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    Something doesn't add up. There are a bunch of possibilities. But two black, two red would normally be combined with two white and two bare copper. The "other black and red" is definitely not neutral. Pictures would help a lot. In addition, if you can use a multimeter to carefully measure the voltage between the hot black and red and between each of those and white and the ground, that would provide a lot of insight into what is going on here (could involve a switched receptacle, an MWBC or something else.) Commented Oct 30 at 0:56
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    "One black and one red are hot wires and other black nad red set is neutral." This is almost certainly not true.
    – nobody
    Commented Oct 30 at 0:56
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    Photos would be useful. Are the little metal tabs (joining the two screws on each side) on the existing receptacle intact?
    – nobody
    Commented Oct 30 at 0:57
  • Using the term neutral could be an error on my part. I used voltage detector and two wires were live and two were not. It's not a traditional setup for sure as none of the only videos showed this. I opened an existing gfci in my washroom and that one has two black and two white which is how it's supposed to be. But in this case one black and one red coming from the same side from the wall are hot when I check with my voltage detector and the other set is not. Then there is a white wire and a bare one.
    – Raul
    Commented Oct 30 at 1:51
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    That's a perfectly normal and "traditional" MWBC. Educate yourself on the subject, it's likely not the only one in your house. The fact that your limited electrical research has not come across them is not an indication that it's in any way unusual. Depending on age of the installation the breaker(s) feeding it may not be two pole or handle-tied, which then risks you only turn off half the power and get unexpectedly shocked.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Oct 30 at 2:08

2 Answers 2

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"One white" limits possibilities. Provided that you don't have some monkey business downstream it would seem that your circuit is a "multiwire branch circuit" that at the location you are working the halves of the receptacles are fed by separate 120v circuits, and the black and red that have no voltage sensed on them feed a downstream 240v outlet (as allowed by NEC 210.4(C) exception 2). Both of these should be fed by adjacent handle tied breakers or a two-pole breaker.

Your problem is the standard style receptacle has break-off tabs that allow the top and bottom to be fed separately, GFCI receptacles do not have this feature. If GFCI protection is required you have two options. (1)Protect all the involved outlets by connecting the existing style receptacle wired as it originally was, with a broken hot tab, and feed it with a two pole GFCI breaker which would maintain availability of both circuits at this location [that option won't work if somebody has improperly acquired a neutral downstream from another circuit or put some current on the ground], or (2) Pick only use one circuit for use to feed the GFCI receptacle by using a wire connectors to connect the blacks together with a third wire to brass line screw on the receptacle, the two reds together with another wire connector, and the white wire directly to the silver line screw.

The load screws are unusable with either configuration.

A ground wire needs to feed to the receptacle, the feed through to the 240v downstream feed, and to the box if metal.

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  • Thank you for your response. Trying to understand the option 2, connect black wires to brass line screw, white to silver line screw. Where do I connect the two red ones?
    – Raul
    Commented Oct 30 at 2:17
  • Just to each other. This configuration is easiest, but you will be losing capacity. Commented Oct 30 at 2:19
  • Apologies for all the stupid questions, losing capacity how? What does that mean
    – Raul
    Commented Oct 30 at 2:20
  • You have effectively two 15 or 20A circuits here now - one on each half of the receptacle. By not using one side of the line here, you lose the second circuit here. Or you put in a larger box and two GFCIs, one wired to black and white as already noted, line only, and the other to red and white, line only.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Oct 30 at 2:20
  • On the existing configuration you have 1800w or 2400w (depending on 15 or 20A breaker) available on each the top and bottom for a total of 3600 or 4800 watts. In config 2 you only get one 1800w (or 2400w) circuit at this location. Commented Oct 30 at 2:25
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In a kitchen backsplash this is most likely an MWBC where two circuits on two breakers share a white wire. You have the two circuits connected to a single outlet by breaking the tab that connects the top and bottom half. So you can plug say a kettle in one and a toaster in the other and use them together.

You cannot do that (split the top/bottom) with a GFCI device, so your options if you want GFCI are:

  1. Leave this outlet alone, and install a two-pole GFCI breaker. (Expensive).
  2. If there is room in the junction box on the wall for TWO double outlets (or if you don't mind sawing tile in place), put two GFCIs in there, one on the red circuit and one on the black. The white serves both. The downstream circuit (another outlet somewhere else fed by the second pair of red/black wires) can then be GFCI or not, by wiring things differently here.
  3. Put a GFCI here with the black wire, and use the red wire to feed a different GFCI at the next location. In this box, just connect the two red wires together by themselves. This way, each GFCI outlet is on a different breaker, and you can put your kettle over here and your toaster over there.

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