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The IKEA kitchen cabinets were installed according to their instructions, approx. 6-8 inches between each screw on the rails. But as there wasn't appropriate studs for each screw, some used wall anchors. In short, each rail has at least 3-4 screws into studs, with the rest (shown in photo) as wall anchors.

I am unable to take the cabinets off as they are currently in use and I am a one man operation. I am unable to remove all the pieces of trim used to cover and combine all of the cabinet boxes together nor able to lean over the counter to remove the cabinets. The idea here is to reinforce the wall anchors from the back of the wall without touching the kitchen cabinets.

What can I do now that I have access to the wall behind the kitchen to reinforce these wall anchors?

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    Would the fact that the specs called for each screw to be in stud, and I have rails that calls for 5 screws, but only 3 are in studs still be safe? If memory serves, what I aimed to do was: stud, anchor, stud, anchor, stud. Basically never two anchors next to one another.
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 22 at 19:36
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    The current level of safety will depend on the cabinet itself, and partly on how it is loaded. If they are light, and the stud locations are fortunate, then you might be fine. But if any torsion is induced, I would suspect that this isn't good enough for a heavy load.
    – MikeB
    Commented Jan 23 at 9:39
  • Having just installed some IKEA high cupboards on a rail, I got the shivers reading "IKEA kitchen cabinets were installed according to their instructions, approx. 6-8 inches between each screw on the rails." Screws in the drywall might make the installer feel good but they're useless for holding the cabinets - only the ones in the studs count. If you've screwed into every stud, and you don't have three-quarters of a cabinet hanging out past a stud with no stud-screws, then you're fine. Even a modest overhang is probably OK as the cabinets are screwed together in several places (right?).
    – tomnexus
    Commented Jan 24 at 0:59
  • @tomnexus all rails had 5-6 screws depending on length. I alternated between stud and anchor based on length. So for any given rail there was at minimum 2 stud screws if they were short, and 3 stud screws if standard length.
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 24 at 2:46
  • If the cabinets are held to the rail by corner brackets at the top corners as pictured in a link you posted in another comment, and given the quality of such cabinets, my intuition is that if you load the cabinets up enough, they will tear apart before you destroy a steel rail held to three studs with screws. If you used decent screws ;). If you're really worried place a 1x1 or similar strip underneath the cabinet against the wall, screw the cabinet to it through the bottom shelf and screw it to new blocking on the block of the wall where you have access.
    – jay613
    Commented Jan 24 at 12:14

5 Answers 5

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You can just float backing blocks at the screw locations. This can be anything you have on hand, such as plywood or 1x4 scraps. There's no need to anchor the new backing to the existing framing.

One or two at a time...

  1. Pull the screws from inside the cabinets, then shear off the plastic plugs from this side with a razor knife or snips.

  2. Either have a partner hold blocks of wood on location, or use double-sided tape or hot glue to attach them to the drywall.

  3. Replace them with longer screws.

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  • I see how I can float blocks of wood (or better yet, secured to the studs) from the back (the photos are the back). But I am unable to access the screws from the front or inside of the cabinet. IKEA cabinets hang off rails that hide the rail itself. After removing excess plastic, was there a way to "screw" the backing to the screw?
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 22 at 19:43
  • Here is an example of what is going on - but not exactly what I used. Notice how the cabinet would hide the screws used to secure the rail to the wall. ikea.com/us/en/p/eket-suspension-rail-80340048/….
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 22 at 19:45
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    You might not need to anchor the backing to the existing framing but do anyway. You might not always have access to the back of the units and how annoying would it be to have the backing block fall down if you unscrew the cabinet mounts in the future?!
    – user3210218
    Commented Jan 23 at 11:03
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    @isherwood I am an one man operation - I am unable to deconstruct (there are screwed trim connecting all of the cabinets as one unit) or unable (I can't bend over the counters to life the cabinets even if empty and not attached to other cabinets.) to pull them to proceed. I recognize how this is the most ideal solution - but I think this is only viable if I was constructing the kitchen AND the rear was accessible OR I had the foresight to add the backing prior to mounting the rails.
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 23 at 20:42
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    @Bluebird, you may want to update the question with details on what you can and cannot do with the cabinets. Answers given so far may be based on assumption that you can easily remove wall fasteners (i.e screws) - from inside the kitchen.
    – Astrogator
    Commented Jan 24 at 18:44
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Yes, blocking secured to the studs is definitely the best approach for screwing the cabinets to. especially since you have access to the studs without doing any more demolition.

Use jack posts or some other temporary structure to support the cabinets while the anchors are being removed

The cabinets can stay in place, undo the screw and cut off the plastic part of the anchor and then the blocking can be installed, and then screws can be used through the existing holes.

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    Why not just take the cabinets down? That's the whole point of the hanging rail system. Empty the cabinet, lift slightly to get it off the rail, then set it aside.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jan 23 at 13:32
  • Adding blocking to studs should be done very carefully. You don't want to be driving nails or you'll tear the drywall loose. This is why I don't recommend it unless it's actually needed.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 23 at 13:43
  • Personally, I think it's better to simply remove the cabinets, cut out drywall where blocking needs to go, add the blocking, and repair the drywall (and it doesn't even need to look pretty). Then rehang the cabinets. (OP may not have access to the space behind the cabinets—from behind—for the entire length.)
    – Huesmann
    Commented Jan 23 at 15:04
  • That's completely outside the scope here. The cabinets are already hung and there's apparently no problem. It's an improvement of opportunity.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 23 at 15:38
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    @Questor I have boxes of construction screws with the torx heads. My plan is to use them in this remediation.
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 25 at 17:50
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Given my restrictions of keeping the cabinets in-place. I used https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/291864/162528 and https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/291809/162528 proposals for the following:enter image description here

The idea here was that screws work via friction. If I take two pieces of wood - drill undersized pilot holes where the screws will go, apply epoxy, then clamp, and screw the backing to the studs and to each other. I've effectively maximized the amount of "grip" the screws would have on the backing despite not being able to drive them directly into the board. The epoxy will fill inside where the screw blades or grooves (I don't know the right term) and serve as additional filler to secure the screw to the backing. Thoughts or comments?

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    Seems pretty strong to me. Not the easiest to apply but if you have only a few to do, it should work. I'd suggest first cutting the middle holes and then ripsawing through the piece on a table saw. The kerf will provide enough of undersizing for tight clamping - you don't want to squeeze the anchors too much, as the wings separating is what holds them in place.
    – jpa
    Commented Jan 24 at 6:07
  • Just using one piece of wood and drilling holes for the existing screws seems easier than clamping two pieces, since you're filling the holes with glue anyway. An aside, I don't think screws are held by friction, their grooves dig into the substrate, like teeth. Nails seem more friction held, and they offer more pull out resistance than screws too (since screws rip the substrate loose once they start to move).
    – Xen2050
    Commented Jan 24 at 8:59
  • @Xen2050 I had thought of one homogenous piece - however what I wanted was compressive strength in addition to what "sticky" strength the epoxy offered. I figured that given I had screws, having them compressed against the substrate would offer more pull resistance than a hole filled with epoxy. I'll see what works easier and if there were any marginal improvements from a 1-piece to 2-piece approach and update my answer.
    – Bluebird
    Commented Jan 25 at 17:46
  • @Xen2050 Nails have more shear strength then screws (except engineered screws offer equal or greater shear strength)... But they have way less pull out resistance... Test it for yourself, put a screw and a nail into a board... Try pulling out the screw, try pulling out the nail... Which was easier to pull out?
    – Questor
    Commented Jan 25 at 20:17
  • @Questor Right, I misstated, screws definitely have more initial pull out resistance. I meant nails have a more constant resistance to pulling out, even after they start to move. Screws hold a LOT tighter at first, but once they move a little and rip loose they come out much easier. (PS. Was watching the Project Farm guy's testing of this, youtube.com/watch?v=kAxGAIFbqu4 He's got another video on shear strength I'll check out now too)
    – Xen2050
    Commented Jan 29 at 8:04
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Thinking: The load of the cabinets is all transmitted through the screw thread surface area and passed on to whatever materials are in contact with that small surface area. The ability to resist the axial thrust imparted to the screw by the cabinet weight trying to make a mess on the kitchen floor is what needs to be improved here.

Possible action: Use a thick glob of construction adhesive all around the anchor just as it comes through the drywall then gently push a large FENDER WASHER (concept imagery) over the end of the anchor screw to squish out the adhesive. Follow up with some wire or cable ties wrapped around the screw up against the fender washer, or equivalent, to help anchor the washer against the adhesive and the sheetrock. Then put a little more adhesive on the wire or cable ties.

This seems messy but it will help bond all the axial loading components together without causing any vibration or movement distress to any prior attachments, such as any additional nailing or screwing in the area of the already finished wall surfaces in the kitchen.

Hope this helps.

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Epoxy putty

Available from many manufacturers, epoxy putty is thicker consistency than normal epoxy glue. Typically it comes as a bar that you knead to mix the components.

Mix it up, and press tightly around the wall anchor and against the drywall. It won't be as good as a backing block, but it will reinforce the wall anchors a bit without needing access to the screws. It shouldn't stop you from unscrewing the rails later, as it doesn't form that strong a bond to the metal.

You could also consider installing a backing block with holes for the existing anchors. That would make it easier to add new screws later if the rail would ever show signs of coming loose.

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    It seems to me that all this would do is make a slightly larger wall anchor, spreading the force across a bit more drywall. Since drywall is known for not having great pull-out resistance, I'm not sure this would help. If I've misunderstood, please edit to clarify.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Jan 23 at 13:41
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    @FreeMan It also stops the anchor from wiggling in the hole, which over time expands it out and can result in the anchor pulling out.
    – jpa
    Commented Jan 23 at 14:53

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