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Switch #2 (part 19 in exploded diagram) is faulty: it lights up the surface unit indicator-light 24/7, despite being in the off position.

The red nodes in the following diagram are wiring disconnects. The test: all nodes were disconnected and then each node was individual tested. Switch #2 is delivers power to the indicator 24/7. All other switches would would only turn the indicator on when they were NOT in the off position. enter image description here

An identical good stove's surface-unit indicator only turns on when any of the four switches are not in the off position. After cooking is completed and the switches are all off, the indicator goes dark.

Based on testing, a switch that is NOT off is designed to power the SURFACE-UNIT indicators light.

What causes this failure mode (i.e. short)? I ask because I would like to know if there is a simple fix that does not involve replacing the switch.

Switch Description: https://www.amazon.com/Replacing-Range-Infinite-Switch-WB24T10029/dp/B01N5EOYJI/

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  • I am afraid it is the control board, to test, switch the two switches position
    – DIY75
    Commented Dec 18, 2022 at 20:43
  • 3
    Jiggle the controls, one of those knobs looks a little off (or rather, a little "not off"). Also realize it is designed to light when a surface is turned-off but still hot. (or expected to be still hot, if the control board is relying on timers/guesswork instead of actual temp sensors). Come to it, a faulty temp sensor might be a player.
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Dec 18, 2022 at 21:03
  • At a guess, inside the switch, a leaf-spring contact presses against a cam, and the leaf-spring has weakened. In theory, the switch could be opened, the leaf spring bent slightly with long-nose pliers, and reassembled. However, 1. the switch appears to be riveted together, so disassembly and reassembly becomes more difficult, and 2. any mistake could cause fire and danger of electric shock. So, my advice is to buy a replacement, and then disassemble the old switch to satisfy curoisity.
    – DrMoishe Pippik
    Commented Dec 19, 2022 at 3:02
  • @DrMoishePippik Agreed. My curiosity will need to be satisfied after replacing the switch with a new switch.
    – gatorback
    Commented Dec 22, 2022 at 16:56

1 Answer 1

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It's likely some mechanical problem with the innards of your bad switch, that is keeping the 'P' (pilot) terminal energized. The metal switch cover is just held on by the two tabs at either end: bending them outward a bit will enable its removal, so you can investigate. Needless to say, the switch will need to be de-energized and removed from the appliance first. Here's a webpage with many photos of an infinite heat switch inner mechanisms, which appear to be nearly identical to your own: https://www.electrical-forensics.com/ElectricRanges/ElectricRange.html

That said, the switch in the photo does appear to be a bit off of the OFF mark, and may still be in the depressed condition (which is necessary to turn on the burner). The knob socket could possibly be damaged, and not be indicating the correct position of the switch.

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