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I'll try to explain this so it hopefully makes sense. I am putting a 9U server rack about 6 feet up a closet wall. I found a rack that has an open space in the back. My goal here is installing a 4 outlet box in the wall inside the rack to prevent anyone from unplugging it.

This is for a security camera NVR. This is the only one I could find without a backplate and tall enough to house some security equipment. I am going to put this close to the ceiling and drop the ethernet cables through an opening in the top of the rack. This should prevent anyone messing with the ethernet cables.

I would like to run a new line (breaker) from the breaker box to this outlet.

Do I need a stud to mount the outlet junction box to? I am not an electrician but would like to try and attempt this project. I have changed wall-switch outlets, and changed breakers before. This would be a step up from that and a good challenge. I am not sure what steps I would need to take to do this. Install the box, then the outlet, what is correct way to tackle this project?

Here are some pictures that hopefully tie this idea together.

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  • I had that rack and it worked well. Are you familiar with installing "remodel/old work" electrical boxes or what they even are?
    – JPhi1618
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 15:26
  • @JPhi1618, just googled this. Looks like remodel attach to drywall and old work attach to studs. That correct?
    – amrog
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 15:51
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    Put a UPS in the rack enclosure. If someone is in the house and aware of the system, they can easily flip the breakers off. If you get one where the alarm beep can be disabled, better yet. I'm theoretically fond of the "thing that appears to be the video recording system" in plain sight, covered by a camera attached to the "actually well hidden" video recording system, but have never bothered to build that, yet.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 16:22
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    @ecnerwal be sure to provide a baseball bat on a chain, so the bad guys have something handy to smash the decoy camera. Nothing more incriminating than that!
    – Harper - Reinstate Monica
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 17:59
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    @Harper-ReinstateMonica Then they'll get hurt and claim it was an attractive nuisance and there will be lawyers willing to file that lawsuit...
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Nov 12, 2021 at 1:31

2 Answers 2

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A few things to consider:

  • Rack Mounting

The rack itself needs to be either attached to studs or screwed into something else that is attached to studs. Since it is unlikely that you would be able to get enough screws into studs by positioning the rack "just right", the usual method is to cut a sheet of plywood to be a little larger than the rack and all other equipment and mount that to the studs. Then you can put screws through every mounting hole of the rack into the plywood and it will be very secure.

  • Receptacle Type

You are planning on 4 receptacles. Most typical installations I have worked with, whether computer, video or telephone equipment (or often a combination) only end up using one or two receptacles (so a standard duplex will be fine) and plug surge protectors into each receptacle. That allows for easy on/off without unplugging (and unplugging is a pain to do reaching past all the equipment into the back of the rack) and provides some protection against surges. If you have high power requirements (as opposed to just a lot of different small items, which is the more common situation) then whether a duplex or a quad you can bring in either two circuits or an MWBC (two circuits in one, essentially). If your expect power needs are 1500W or less than one circuit is plenty.

Note that four receptacles on one circuit costs very little more than two receptacles, just may not gain you anything at all.

  • Receptacle Mounting

There are three ways you could go here.

  • Standard wall receptacles. Install an ordinary one gang (2 receptacle) or two gang (4 receptacle) box in the wall. Run the cable. Install the receptacles. Put on an ordinary cover. When you are ready to put up the plywood, measure where the receptacle is and cut a rectangle where the receptacles will be. Leave an inch or so all around the cover plate so that you have a little work room in case so the receptacles can be replaced without taking down the rack and the plywood.
  • Make the Plywood the Wall. Cut a hole the exact size of the needed opening (one gang or two gang) in the plywood. Install the plywood. Cut into the drywall through the hole in the plywood. Install the box and receptacles such that the front of the box/receptacles is flush mount with the plywood - i.e., the plywood becomes the wall.
  • Surface Mount. Install the plywood. Install a metal box for the receptacles. Run the cable down the wall/plywood and into the top of the box. Install the receptacles. I don't think the cable needs damage protection on the wall in this case, but if it does (the pros will speak up if it does...) then use conduit or wiremold for the few feet from the ceiling to the box.
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    With 16" stud spacing (common but hardly universal) and mounting holes 16" OC (and the option of moving 2.75 inches to the other set of 16" OC) not the least unreasonable to expect to be able to sink it directly into studs unless there are other constraints. OTOH, for a closet wall that'll be hidden behind an installed rack, ripping the wall open and adding blocking as needed (and having plenty of access for running the new power cable) with minimal need of highly skilled work on the drywall repair is an option.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 16:19
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    And on the other hand, a sheet of plywood (perhaps 2' x 3') is super easy, provides plenty of room to mount the rack plus other stuff, and a simple coat of white paint (assuming the rest of the closet is painted white) will make it "good enough" without requiring drywall work at all.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 16:35
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    "If your expect power needs are 1500W or less than one circuit is plenty." -- and even at 1500W, cooling the closet may be an issue. 1500W is just about one hair drier worth of heat.
    – Wayne Conrad
    Commented Nov 12, 2021 at 3:50
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    @WayneConrad Cooling is a valid point, especially in a closet. My concern here is just how many/what type of circuits based on 4 receptacles. In reality, for camera/security systems (and even throwing modem, router, etc. in as is often the case) this is likely just a few hundred W, as long as no full-size regular computers are needed.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Nov 12, 2021 at 4:05
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I'm adding an answer to supplement the excellent answer from manassehkatz above because he beat me to most of the points I wanted to make.

If you can mount it right where you want it and have it centered between studs, thats great, but you have to make sure that electrical comes down the wall on one side and ethernet and camera cables come in as far as possible on the other side. Electrical lines can cause quite a bit of interference when they are run parallel and close to data cables.

What I would suggest is the plywood backing idea, but go ahead and have a stud go straight down the middle of the box to provide a solid divide between power and data. The plywood (3/4") screwed into the center stud will provide plenty of strength for this small rack. If you go with the plan to remove drywall and replace with plywood, then put some blocking right down the middle to create a divide.

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    As a data wiring professional, I find the "power cables make interference on data cables" trope far overblown in actual practice. Coax is shielded by design, ethernet transport is designed to reject and cancel interference and does very well at it, not to mention being at vastly different frequencies from powerline noise. 2"/50mm separation is required if the insulation is not rated adequately. Line voltage insulated ethernet cables can be routed in the same conduit with power cables and work just fine - differential signaling on twisted pairs works very effectively.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Nov 11, 2021 at 17:26
  • @Ecnerwal what's your experience with USB? It's differentially signalled on twisted pairs, but I've seen a lot of disruptions that were magically gone after moving the power cables...
    – Daniël van den Berg
    Commented Nov 12, 2021 at 5:19
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    USB cabling is often not twisted, or not twisted much, examining actual cables .vs. ethernet cables. It also has valid signaling modes at speeds much closer to powerline noise frequencies.
    – Ecnerwal
    Commented Nov 12, 2021 at 14:08

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