Should I bend my roof edge away from the fascia to prevent water wicking?

Question

Last year, I had a new fiberglass shingle roof installed by one of the better roofing companies in my area. Overall, I am happy, but I'm not sure that the drip-edge was done correctly. It seems that water will wick up under the edge and potentially cause rot (I live in a humid area).

I am considering attempting to bend the edge up, so it is more like the previous drip-edge. I think that if I make a wood wedge on a table saw about a foot long, I can push it up under the edge and press another piece of wood at the existing crease to increase the bend. I know that it will flex enough to get a wedge in, since I put temporary spacers under the edge so I could get paint under the edge (roofer left any replacement fascia unpainted).

Is this a good plan?

I pointed out my concern to the roofing company owner, he disagreed. I wasn't sure enough to argue much.

Answer 1

No. Opening up the joint creates increased opportunity for bulk water entering the wall system driven by rain. Capillary action is a less likely source of bulk water penetration. The joint widens behind the metal, the wood’s rough surface lowers surface tension, and the depth of overlap gives gravity a lot to work with.

While a properly formed positive drip edge formed from a wider piece of metal would have been better, the improvement would be mostly the wider material. Wider flashings simply provide more protection. One reason drips are associated with wider flashings is complex profiles add stiffness. The stiffness reduces oil canning of broader sheet metal surfaces.

The construction looks pretty typical for a reasonable residential roofing job and the roofer’s experience with local conditions and intact reputation count a lot more than lay roofing theories. A good rule of thumb is don’t add holes to working roof systems (or enlarge existing holes).

If a large volume of water is coming over the edge of the roof, gutters and downspouts might be warranted.

Answer 2

This might technically be a valid concern, but millions of homes have drip edge installed exactly like yours. In fact, I've never heard of it being installed with a gap. The contact between the lower flange and the fascia actually supports the upper surface of the drip edge form. Without that support you'd see sag, as the metal is quite flexible. I wouldn't be surprised if it rattled in the wind.

If you want to satisfy your concern, I'd insert some plastic clips (think tiny clothes pin or paper clip) along the bottom edge at say 12 inch intervals. This would serve to raise the metal off the wood while maintaining support as I've described.

Frankly, a better solution (if durability is your primary concern) would be to just install brown fascia wrap. It's relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. You already have maintenance-free soffit, so why not that as well? Of course, I understand reluctance to do so if you have wooden siding. I have cedar siding and fascia with steel soffits myself.

Answer 3

A good roof company should no this and be doing this. A 1x2 furring strip should be attached at the top edge outer side of the fascia board. Then the drip edge butted and secured against the furring strip and top of roof. This will give a clearance so that water will drip and run off and away from the fascia. I know lots of roofing companies will place the drip edge right against the fascia w/o the 1x2. And that's the cause of most of my repairs are from rotted fascia.

Answer 4

I like the idea of creating a “drip edge” so the flashing is not touching the fascia board, but I doubt you can make a “clean” break in the middle of the vertical leg of the flashing.

Typically there’s a “kicker” (out) near the bottom of the vertical leg of the flashing. Trying to make one now (with the flashing in place) will be difficult to keep it straight and “clean”. I’d guess there will be bumps, dents, etc. from manually bending the flashing in place.

I’d try bending the flashing out where it bends over the roof edge. I think you could push a flat steel plate (perhaps about 36” long) up to the top edge and then pull the vertical leg away from the fascia.

The downside is that wind could blow rain up under the flashing. Do you live in a high wind area?

Answer 5

Here is my solution. Isherwood mentioned something similar in their answer. I actually did this over a year ago, and it is working fine so far.

I wedged pieces of 1-1/8 x 1/8 PVC lattice moulding under the drip edge. I made a guide so they are all pushed the same distance under the edge. The bottom of the lattice is about at the crease.

A fair amount of force was required to push them into the opening, I don't think they will come out unless there is a hurricane. The fascia was painted after the lattice was installed, and some paint probably got up far enough so they are somewhat "glued" also. They have already survived 50-60 mph gusts when a big storm passed by.