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It's faux-oak, but specifically faux-oak with some sort of "pale" (perhaps "blonde" "pickled" or "bleached") faux-finish.

You can try - likely there will be noticeable difference of new to old until 2 years difference is an insignificant part of their time in service. It's hard to predict how mixing the two products will …

Probably just etch it clean and leave it. Trying to guess what the prospective buyer will like for a color is doomed to fail - just get back to clean concrete and stop.

I suppose it would depend what you consider to be a "sealer" - you could epoxy coat it (and then you'd need spar varnish or something like that over the top for UV damage prevention) and that can be s …

Your best bet with re-staining it is to take the whole thing back to wood, and re-stain the whole thing if you are going to do that - then it will all match. …

Well, there's always "nothing" - very quick, low odor, and no gloss to speak of. About as natural as natural wood can get. Next up from that would be boiled linseed oil, or paste wax, or boiled linse …

You can use "furniture glaze" (pretty much a tinted "clear" finish.) You could tint/dye a clear finish, or use a naturally tinted "clear" finish such as dark shellac. For both of those you'd likely …

If you have a roof on the thing, no paint or stain at all is a perfectly good option. Dredge up a new or old copy of Rex Robert's "Your Engineered House" (the later version is by Charlie Wing, updat …

Generally somewhat lower, as you generally get to skip the "scrape" step when the finish needs to be renewed.

Do what a professional would do - don't touch it when wet. Sand the affected areas with fine grit and re-stain, leave until it dries completely, then move, flip over and do the opposite side, etc. Ap …

If you want to color maple, you might investigate dyes rather than stains - leaves much more of the grain visible. If you're going to stain it anyway, poplar (in the lumber trade that almost always m …