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I have a 1920s house (United States) with a receptacle on the main floor where the bottom outlet has constant power and the top outlet is controlled by a single pole light switch, as would be expected to operate a floor standing lamp.

I would like to revise this outlet to add a ceiling fixture. In other words, the receptacle would have constant power in both outlets and the switch would control the ceiling fixture. I believe I can tie into the same homerun to power the receptacle and ceiling fixture. The only problem is how to tie into the outlet. If there were no receptacle, I would create a passthrough junction box to splice wires to the switch and fixture. However, if I kept the receptacle, is it possible to send a load to the switch and lamp from the receptacle?

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  • Sure. You can add an outlet just about anywhere that's not switched, and you can branch about anywhere as long as you meet fill limits. Do you have a more specific question?
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 22 at 17:10
  • @isherwood No, it became more obvious the more I thought about it, but I have relatively little experience running new wire, so I'm not thinking it through very well.
    – AdamO
    Commented Jan 22 at 17:11
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    I suggest that you revise to ask about the actual wire connections. Include photos of the box.
    – isherwood
    Commented Jan 22 at 17:27

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This is quite common, and I had someone do that in my house (I didn't know much about electrical work back then) in three bedrooms.

Assuming the basic wiring is as you described, a typical configuration, assuming standard cables, is as follows:

  • Black (hot)/white (neutral) to receptacle box
  • Black connects to bottom hot screw on receptacle and to white wire (marked black, in theory...) to switch
  • White connects to one of the neutral screws on the receptacle
  • Tab connecting upper and lower screws removed on the hot side of the receptacle
  • A separate black (switched hot)/white (hot) cable goes from the receptacle box to the switch box
  • Black and white (marked black, in theory...) connect to switch (with a dumb switch it doesn't matter which wire is on top vs. bottom)
  • In receptacle box, black wire from switch connects to top hot screw on the receptacle

To change to a switched ceiling light:

  • Add an appropriate ceiling box and run a cable (12/2 if 20A circuits, 14/2 or 12/2 if 15A circuit) from the ceiling box to the switch box
  • In the switch box, remove the black marking from the white wire or tape over it with white tape (if it is there)
  • Remove the white wire from the switch
  • Connect the black wire from the ceiling to the switch
  • Connect white wires together with a wire nut
  • In the receptacle box, connect the white wire from the switch box (removing or covering the black marking) to the other neutral screw
  • In the receptacle box, connect the two black wires to each other and to both hot screws. The easiest way to do that is probably to use a wire nut to connect the two black wires and two short black pigtail wires and connect the other ends of the pigtails to the hot screws
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  • Thanks! This is a helpful answer. It turns out that the ideal location for the fixture is nearly a straight shot from the receptacle. Is it possible to keep the repurposed neutral from the switch as hot? For the new cable, I would splice the black to that repurposed neutral with a wire nut in the box. The neutral can tie into the receptacle with pigtails. Bond all the grounds in the box.
    – AdamO
    Commented Jan 22 at 23:03
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    Yes, that should be fine. Two things though: 1 - Do not call it a repurposed neutral. It isn't. It is a repurposed white wire. 2 - Current code in most (if not all) areas requires neutral in switch boxes (makes smart switches much easier). Old circuits are grandfathered. But not clear whether old switch box used with new configuration would be grandfathered or not.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Jan 22 at 23:10
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    Good call. The switch is just about 5 feet from the outlet, I can probably fish new 14-2 wire to and fro if the stud holes are big enough - which would also deprecate the old aluminum knob and tube that services the switch. Your electrical contributions to DIY SE are awesome - this isn't the first useful answer I've got from you.
    – AdamO
    Commented Jan 22 at 23:12
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    old aluminum knob and tube ???? Really? I didn't think aluminum was actually a thing in knob & tube days.
    – manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact
    Commented Jan 23 at 0:48

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