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Can I retuckpoint my chimney or will it have to be rebuilt? The bricks seem solid, but the mortar is in rough shape. Thanks.

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  • It does seem like more mortar is missing than from just time. Just wondering if the right mortar was used in the first place.
    – crip659
    Commented Nov 3, 2022 at 18:02
  • I'm no mason, so this is a comment not an answer Is the chimney actually in use or are you looking to just keep it from falling over? If it's actually in use, then have it professionally inspected to ensure the liner is in good shape. I'd think that tuck pointing would, most likely be OK so long as the chimney liner itself is in good shape.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Nov 3, 2022 at 18:02
  • The chimney is in use. It is the vent for the boiler. The inner lining is a 6" galvanized steel duct. From what I can tell there isn't a problem with the inner tube.
    – user3080392
    Commented Nov 3, 2022 at 18:27
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    that is going to be a lots of mortar, use the right kind this time. Make sure you are secured with rope while working.
    – DIY75
    Commented Nov 3, 2022 at 18:39
  • looks salvable to me, if just barely.
    – dandavis
    Commented Nov 3, 2022 at 22:24

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If it hasn't actually moved en masse, it's repairable, with care.

That doesn't look tuck-pointed[1], it looks like recessed judging by the surviving, or newer, bits.
Recessed isn't a good technique for exposed structures, as it gathers moisture which then allows frost to crack & break.

I would suggest you first infill all the larger gaps before cutting out the remaining half-good mortar, for stability. That will allow you to consider the actual pointing job as a second task, rather than trying to fill & strike[2] in one go. I'd be tempted to use a thin mortar in a gun to get sufficient penetration, then firmer for the actual pointing, which is easier to get a good shape in. When you then get to the actual pointing, use either a weather joint [out-slope] which you can do with a standard trowel, similar to if you were bricklaying & striking, or hollow-key for which you use a round trowel [probably easier for a beginner]. The end result for either is that the bottom of each joint ends flush, not recessed.

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See https://www.diydata.com/techniques/brickwork/pointing/pointing.php for some common techniques.

[1]Tuck-pointing is where the main gap is first filled with a matching colour, allowing a thin highlight of pale to make it look like you used fine-cut brick with very narrow mortar joints.
[2] Striking is when you in effect lay & point in one go when building a wall, as opposed to pointing which is a second task, & should be employed when re-pointing.

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  • Thanks for the reply. If I first fill the deep joints as you suggest, how should I prepare them? Should I rinse them with water and brush out any residue? And when I fill them, should I just leave a channel about 1/2 to 3/4 inch deep for pointing? How long should I let the first layer set? Thanks.
    – user3080392
    Commented Nov 5, 2022 at 0:16
  • Just get some mortar in there to stabilise before you start raking out the more recent bits. Bricklaying doesn't require 'perfectly clean'. Leave it overnight to cure sufficiently. Don't work if there could be frost.
    – Tetsujin
    Commented Nov 5, 2022 at 7:49

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