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My coop is from the 1970s and has fairly strict electrical requirements due to the old wiring. I'm in the process of trying to update my appliances and running into trouble finding suitable replacements.

For my stove/oven, I need to find something with a maximum power rating of 5 amps or less. I know that shouldn't be a major issue since a gas stove would only draw power for ignition + the clock, but from what I can tell, the maximum power rating isn't readily available information. The salesmen at 3 different appliance shops I've been to haven't been helpful either. Does anyone have suggestions either a) for a stove that would meet this requirement or b) how to go about learning this info?

In addition, the dishwasher is hardwired to a dedicated circuit. Has anyone replaced a hardwired dishwasher? Does it make sense to do, or better to have an electrician just install an outlet?

Any guidance y'all could give me would be greatly appreciated! Would be happy to give additional context if it would be useful.

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  • All electrical appliances have a label on them that states how much power they need. Usually volts plus amps or wattage(volts times amps). Example 120 volts times five amps equals 600 watts. Hardwire is just the wires connected directly to appliance instead of a outlet/plug. Usually a simple change over, but local rules will state what you can do, renters cannot do anything except change light bulbs. Most North American electrical circuits are a minimum of 15 amps(since before 1970)
    – crip659
    Commented Dec 5, 2021 at 15:28
  • What is the reason for the 5A max draw from the oven? Is it on a circuit with other permanent loads and anything more than 5A will cause a breaker trip?
    – FreeMan
    Commented Dec 6, 2021 at 16:05
  • @FreeMan The building has old risers with limited capacity. My understanding is that they've had issues with the risers blowing out as a result of residents overdrawing (particularly from space heaters) so they try to add restrictions where they can.
    – NYCooper
    Commented Dec 7, 2021 at 16:33
  • So this is a landlord imposed limit due to antiquated building wiring that is being over tapped, not some odd limit within your electrical panel. Fair enough.
    – FreeMan
    Commented Dec 7, 2021 at 17:03

2 Answers 2

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Stove/Oven Power

This should be easy. Go to a reseller or manufacturer site that lists specifications and/or downloadable manuals. Unfortunately, in a quick search via Home Depot, I found that the specifications just say 15A (GE) or 20A (Samsung) circuit and don't specify the actual usage. You may have to contact a manufacturer directly to find out, or go to an appliance retailer that has floor samples and take a look. This is important for many people even if they have a dedicated circuit for the stove/oven because it affects power needed for generator or battery backup.

Hardwired Dishwasher

This is actually my preference. Most dishwashers can be hardwired or plugin. Same for disposals. I think hardwired is better for an appliance that is attached to the wall/cabinets/sink/etc. and never unplugged except for service or replacement - dishwasher, disposal, oven, etc. However, code in some places may specify plug-in, though even if it does in your area now, you may be grandfathered by the previous dishwasher, provided you do a direct replacement.

One catch though is GFCI. GFCI is often easier and/or cheaper to install with a receptacle for plug-in use than it is to install for hardwired use. But even then, you could install a deadfront GFCI (no plug-in receptacle) near the dishwasher and hardwire it to the LOAD screws.

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My coop is from the 1970s and has fairly strict electrical requirements due to the old wiring.

The best cure for old wiring is AFCI breakers. They listen to the power line for the "sound of arcing" (almost literally; if you've ever hooked up speakers with the power on or had a bad wire in a headphone cable, that crinkle-crunch sound is the sound of arcing).

This will catch the majority of problems we worry about in old wiring. GFCI also has some modest ability to help, but AFCI is the critical tech.

For retrofits Code allows it to be retrofitted as a receptacle at the first outlet in the string, although this fails to protect the home-run from the panel. However if you have no requirement for AFCI whatsoever, you are free to put it anywhere you please.

If the issue is aluminum wiring relax - there's a strategy for making those safe. AFCIs help, but use of modern certified CO-ALR receptacles and switches ("R" for revised unlike the 1970s); using a torque screwdriver to set torques properly (unlike what was done in the 1970s), and "AlumiConn" or "MAC Block" splices

For my stove/oven, I need to find something with a maximum power rating of 5 amps or less.

That will be defined by the nameplate on the appliance, which will state the number of amps it draws. No other figure matters.

If you're at an appliance shop, just search the bottom/back of the appliance for the nameplate.

If you see VA and not amps, divide by system voltage (i.e. 120V) to get amps.

In addition, the dishwasher is hardwired to a dedicated circuit. Has anyone replaced a hardwired dishwasher? Does it make sense to do, or better to have an electrician just install an outlet?

If you add a dishwasher receptacle, you will need to achieve a strong understanding of GFCI. It must be a plain receptacle, but it must be GFCI Protected which means the test/reset button must be somewhere else.

Also, Code requires a disconnect switch for hardwired dishwashers now.

One clever hack I've seen (well, I've invented lol) is to have an extra gang at the disposal switch, and install a GFCI "switch" next to the disposal switch, which provides both GFCI and disconnect to the dishwasher. When it's next to regular switches, the bizarro form-factor makes people ignore it, which is just right.

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