I was getting ready to repaint a siding board with peeling paint, when I realized there was quite a bit of rotten wood around the hose spigot that goes through the plank. Below are some pictures from after I cleared away most of the soft wood.

Can I repair this without replacing the board, or do I need to hire someone to replace the board? I've repaired some small areas of rot in other areas with wood hardener and epoxy putty, but those repairs didn't go through the board and I'm not sure if it would work to screw the spigot into the epoxy. Replacement won't be so simple since it's a frost-free spigot and someone would need to cut an access panel in our finished basement to remove it.

siding board with spigot

spigot above

It's not possible to see in the picture below, but the rot extends upwards behind the board for about a half-inch.

spigot left

spigot right

  • Do you want permanent repair, or just something to hold up for a year or two?
    – SteveSh
    Commented May 8, 2021 at 23:44
  • @SteveSh I'd prefer something that holds up for more than a year or two.
    – Kaypro II
    Commented May 9, 2021 at 14:16
  • You can repair rotten wood with epoxy. How long it lasts depends on how good a job you do. Commented May 9, 2021 at 14:55
  • @Kaypro II - Then I would do what Jack suggested - remove and replace the bad pieces of siding. More work, but if done properly should last as lone as the rest of the siding.
    – SteveSh
    Commented May 9, 2021 at 15:36

1 Answer 1


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As a rule I don't like using short pieces of siding mid run. But you may need to run pieces shorter than 4' to do this repair. Make sure your final cuts do not line up with another joint above or below the next course. Plan your cuts from top to bottom, since cutting an upper piece of siding first, may make it easier to cut the next piece down. Also locate the new joints over studs.

When adding the new siding, use material behind the joints to divert the water that will come in during foul weather. There are materials available that are specific for this purpose, but I have used aluminum, sheet plastic, or tar paper to use as a "slip" behind joints.

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