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I want to secure a "power rack" for weighlifting -- a square cage that supports a barbell so you don't need a spotter for squat and bench press. I'd like to fasten it to a wooden platform. My first thought was to bolt it to the platform, but the rack comes with no pre-drilled holes.

The frame is 2" x 2" 16-gauge steel and looks like this: enter image description here

I haven't built the platform so I have some flexibility. Current plans: an 8' by 8' platform made of two layers of 5/8" OSB. That platform would rest directly on an old beat up concrete slab in my garage.

How would you connect/tie/bolt/whatever the frame to the floor?

  • Tell us more about the wooden platform. Do you have access to the underside? How thick is the decking? Is it adequately fastened to the framing? What does the framing look like? #legday #ferda – isherwood Sep 29 at 14:27
  • thanks. added more information to the question. going to build the platform out of 5/8" osb – Rob Latham Sep 29 at 14:59
  • You still don't say anything about the framing of the platform. Is it just plywood on concrete? – isherwood Sep 29 at 15:00
  • It sounds like you want to just put down two layers of OSB directly on the floor, no framing. ?? What is the purpose of this "platform" ? – Alaska Man Sep 29 at 17:05
  • That rack looks dangerous. It looks like it could “parallelogram” sideways very easily. I’d add some diagonal braces to the frame. – Lee Sam Sep 29 at 18:07
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This equipment has several bolts located near the floor I would put an angle bracket under the head of the bolt and fit a coach bolt from underneath up through the bracket and attach with a washer and a shake-resistant nut.

enter image description here

You cut a recess for the bolt-head by drilling part way through the bottom sheet with a spade bit.

enter image description here

Else tee-nuts for wood are a good option too, come downwards with a length of all-thread, glue it to stop it from shaking loose and then tighten down with a nut.

enter image description here

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  • I like this idea a lot because it does not involve me adding holes to the frame! The plywood will rest directly on a concrete slab, so fastening from below will be challenging. I agree that nut-and-bolt would be ideal but I think I'll have to fasten the l bracket with a screw – Rob Latham Oct 2 at 14:22
  • you cut a recess for the bolt-head by drilling part way through the bottom sheet with a spade bit, else tee-nuts for wood are a good option too (edit) – Jasen Oct 2 at 19:21
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A: Drill some holes and bolt it.

B: Straps (pipe hanger strapping) or brackets if you don't want to drill holes.

C: The wooden approach to B: - surround the "foot parts" with 2x2's screwed into the platform, then screw or carriage bolt short sections of 2x2 or 2x4 over the metal foot parts into the 2x2's on either side to capture the foot parts.

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    Those are essentially my thoughts. I wouldn't hesitate to drill four 3/8" holes for lag or machine screws, or use square U-bolts through the decking, depending on platform construction. – isherwood Sep 29 at 15:02
  • U-bolts was my first thought. The rest of the suggestions are also excellent. – FreeMan Sep 29 at 15:26
  • I don't mind drilling 3/8" holes for lag bolts. Did not want to weaken the structure but I guess the most weight is born by the vertical components anyway – Rob Latham Sep 29 at 18:21
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I installed three racks this way. We built 8x8 platforms with two layers of 3/4" plywood. The bottom layer was two 4x8 sheets oriented with the 8' side going left to right. The top layer was a 4x8 sheet in the middle going front to back, and another 4x8 sheet ripped into two 2' strips, one on the left, one on the right. This way there's no seam under your feet. The plywood was glued together with construction adhesive, no screws.

I drilled 3/8" holes through the base of the rack and through the plywood. I put tee nuts on the bottom side of the plywood and trimmed bolts so they were flush with the tee nuts.

I am not sure I'd attach the rack the same way again. I might just glue and screw a 2x4 outside the front of the base of the rack, and two more 2x4's outside the base on the left and right. This border would keep the rack from getting bumped out of position when you rack and unrack the weights. It would be a LOT less work and There's not really that much that can happen that will lift the rack off the platform.

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