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I have a lighting fixture that uses CF13DT bulbs. How can I replace just the socket to use Edison screw in bulbs or the bi-pin GU24 bulbs?

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  • You haven't told us anything about your fixture, so that's difficult to answer, but be aware that you void the UL listing when you modify such devices, and that brings liability onto your shoulders for any resulting calamity.
    – isherwood
    Sep 1 '20 at 21:08
  • you have to gut anything electrical on the fixture and start over with a "lamp kit".
    – dandavis
    Sep 1 '20 at 22:20
  • @isherwood what other details can I provide? The bulb type is the only thing I can see without taking it apart, which I don't want to do until I'm ready to replace it. Shouldn't the bulb type be enough? Sep 2 '20 at 3:11
  • Without some idea what the available space and wiring configuration are it's tough to help. Any answers will be general. If you'd like more specific help, show some photos at least.
    – isherwood
    Sep 2 '20 at 12:40
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That fluorescent socket is driven by a ballast, so we’re talking more than just a socket replacement.

Regardless, as Ed Beal says, do not put an Edison socket there, or some fool will put an incandescent in it and start a fire. The fixture is not insulated for that much heat. Use a proprietary LED only socket like Gu10.

Also, building codes probably required non-Edison fixtures at construction time. You’d need to roll it back on resale.

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    It's hard and getting harder to get incandescents anymore, probably a good thing.
    – dandavis
    Sep 1 '20 at 22:18
  • I don't think it's the building codes. Every other light in my house is either Edison or GU24. And I don't plan to use incandescent. I just don't want one fixture in my house to require a different bulb. It's way easier if this bulb type matches the others in my house Sep 2 '20 at 3:14
  • @merlinpatt Well, GU24 is another of those "incandescent-excluder" sockets, and Code compliance is the only reason they use it. Codewise it's not about what you plan to do, but what the next buyer will do when you sell it, or uncontrollable member of your family etc. (Insert "how many safety experts does it take to change a light bulb" joke lol) if you're OK with GU24 that's a good option but you'll have to bypass the ballast... Sep 2 '20 at 16:37
  • Thanks for explaining that. So if the point is to exclude incandescents, why are there any Edison sockets at all in my house? And why did just one singular fixture use a completely different socket from the rest? I know you can't really know why my house was built this way but I'll ask all the same. Lol. I just want some kind of logic as to the mix here instead of it all being one socket type Sep 3 '20 at 17:15
  • @merlinpatt Probably because your state phased in the requirement partially one room at a time. For instance incandescents are STILL allowed where motion sensors are deployed. As far as "why a completely different socket", you're still missing it: That ain't 120V. That's magic fluorescent juice. You wouldn't want to plug anything else in there, it can only power certain fluorescents. Hence the keying. Sep 3 '20 at 17:38
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My concern with going from cfl to Edison the wattage can be much higher and the fixture may not hold up. Also the ballast would need to be removed but there are replacement Edison screw shell bases available normally a hickey is used to connect a screw shell to a metal cover. A hickey is the proper support that is hollow and allows the wires to be routed through the base. The new lamp if not provided with a pigtail should be wired with fixture wire (it looks like cloth with a plastic liner) Hope that helps.

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  • Thanks. Good to know about the wattage issue. I don't plan to use standard incandescent bulbs so I think I'll be fine there. I just don't want to have one fixture that is the only one with that bulb type. Is it better if I just replace the fixture in its entirety? Sep 2 '20 at 3:18

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