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I have ceiling that is about 20 feet high, and one of the bulb holders in recessed light fixtures has come loose, preventing me from installing a new bulb using the bulb changer pole. Unfortunately, it's not something I can reach from below due to the height. However, I do have access to the fixture from the attic crawl space above.

The recessed light is a 6-inch Commercial Electric IC Airtight Housing (similar to this one): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-6-in-Aluminum-Recessed-Can-Light-IC-New-Construction-Airtight-Housing-CAT7ICATA/202060547

My question is: Can I open the Halo Fixture Can from the attic side to secure the loose light holder? If so, any tips or steps to follow?

I’d appreciate any advice or personal experiences! Thanks in advance!

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  • rent a 15 foot scuffle and build it up
    – DIY75
    Commented Oct 5 at 4:04

1 Answer 1

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Made this a wiki to incorporate Huessman's excellent suggestion.

You can't repair the light socket from above because it's mounted on a height-adjustable plate inside the sealed can.

You can replace the entire fixture with an LED wafer from above.

From the attic cut the arms of the can with metal snips (best) or a saw, leaving just the nailed flanges behind and being careful not to damage the ceiling. Then as you pull the fixture up away from the ceiling, the trim ring will separate from it. You can let it fall onto a towel or tie a string to it before it separates entirely from the can.

Measure the hole and buy a compatible LED wafer with integrated trim, junction box, and drywall clips. Raise it from the floor below with string, clip it to the ceiling, transfer the MC connectors from the old lights to the junction box on the new ones and wire it up.

If you don't want one odd light, replace them all this way so you don't have to change bulbs any more.

Given the difficult location, buy high quality name brand lights and buy a spare so you don't have to replace them all when the first one eventually fails.

A difficulty with this approach is that sometimes the old trim ring is painted on, or is very wide, or has a very wide "goof ring" that will fall away during the operation. In some of these cases you'll damage the ceiling paint or reveal an unpainted ring that the new light won't cover. This isn't hard to fix, but if working from below you'll see it more easily and be able to see what you're doing while hiding it.

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    Might be worth at this point simply replacing it (from the attic) with one of those puck lights. If you can't stand the light being different, replace them all (or as many as will enable you to stand it).
    – Huesmann
    Commented Oct 5 at 14:12
  • Thank you @jay613 and Huesmann
    – Ashish
    Commented Oct 6 at 6:23
  • @jay613 certainly: remove the can light, drop a string down from the attic, attach string to puck light, pull puck light up into hole, connect wires. Ceiling puck lights basically have an integral trim ring—no need to install one from below. Manipulating the little spring-loaded clips might actually be easier from above the ceiling than the traditional installation method from below. No need for scaffolding or a tall ladder.
    – Huesmann
    Commented Oct 6 at 14:09
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    @Huesmann great idea. Used it
    – jay613
    Commented Oct 6 at 19:11
  • Of course, this is all possible only if you have access above the ceiling! If there's another habitable space above, you're probably stuck with the scaffolding!
    – Huesmann
    Commented Oct 7 at 13:25

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