Don't make the huge and deadly mistake!
Do not put a NEMA 14-50 socket on a 30A breaker!
Imagine you are traveling "on the road". YOu visit friends or a hotel, and want to do "opportunity charging". (ignoring actual EV stations). Which sockets are easiest to find on a road trip? The "normal socket" is everywhere, and RV campgrounds, hotels and friends may have the RV socket NEMA 14-50. So if you were buying a travel charger for that purpose, you'd want those two sockets.
And guess what? Almost every EV comes with that travel charger set exactly!
This has created a misconception that the RV socket NEMA 14-50 is the standard EV socket. No, it's the standard RV socket!
All that to head you off from the grave mistake of adding a NEMA 14-50 socket to the 30A circuit. The EV will go "Oh, I can draw 40 amps!" with catastrophic results if your breakers aren't tip top. Federal Pacific and Zinsco are popular in the west.
So how do we tell the EV what current is safe?
Surprisingly easily, actually.
That lumpy plug is actually a thing called EVSE. It has several jobs, and one of them is telling the EVSE what current is safe to draw. Watch this video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMxB7zA-e4Y
for the gory details on how it does that.
If you're using the little travel EVSE for your daily charging, you notice it has "dongle plugs" that let you swap out which plug it uses. Here's the weird part: a microchip inside the plug tells the EVSE what kind of plug it is. So a 14-50 plug dongle says "yo, 40A" and a "plain plug" dongle says "yo, 15A" etc. Some vendors offer 30-amp dongle plugs and those will correctly signal "Yo, 30A" - that's what you need. Tesla charges $45 for theirs if you have a Tesla.
However you cannot install a NEMA 14-30 socket on the house if the circuit doesn't have a neutral. In that case, install a NEMA 6-30 socket on the house. *If the EVSE vendor doesn't offer a NEMA 6-30 socket, then build a 1-foot "cheater" extension cord with a whatever-30 socket on one end and a 6-30 plug on the other. Make it 1 foot long so it's an obvious cheater cord, so people don't mistake it for a legitimate cord.
Your other option is to go with a "wall unit" type EVSE that is either factory-wired, or switch settable for amps. Buy the right one and/or set it properly, and it will say "yo, 30A" to the EV. That's what you need.
If Tesla, their Wall Connector 3.0 is only $399 and is settable to any breaker amps from 10A to 60A. So on the happy day you are able to upgrade to a bigger electric panel or service, you'll be able to re-commission the Tesla unit to the higher amps.
A few third-party EVSEs can do the same trick, but CrippleCreek units are locked down unfortunately. Unnecessary and sad.
Chinese units off mail order sites are extremely dangerous - they lack GFCI protection, and are shoddily made and will start fires, including burning up the J1772 socket in your car! That won't be a fun conversation at the dealer.
Also consider the used market for quality manufacturer EVSEs. If the unit is UL-Listed, from an established manufacturer like Siemens, and looks like it's in good working order, then it probably is.
Can you add a second outlet onto that circuit? Maybe.
First, you need to answer our questions above. But technically speaking for a non-hardwired, general purpose 30A circuit there is no limit to the number of receptacles. In fact another option is to share the electric dryer circuit.
However in order to extend a circuit, it must be grounded. EVs don't need neutral. If you use a socket with neutral (NEMA 14-30 or others you should not use like 10-30 or 14-50), you must provide the neutral or very bad things will happen when something else is plugged in there.