Hey I am a professional hvac contractor that specific zone board will not do 3 stages of heat so it will not work with a 2 stage heat pump and heat strips you need to replace that board with Honeywell hz432 zone board tha th should fix your issues
Your idea is full of holes as we like to say. As @Ecnerwal stated in his response, you have an area with a different heat loss and gain from the rest of the house. Just adding a supply and return duct will not provide a good result. It would be great if this idea would solve your problem but I doubt it will. If you live in a warm climate, this will not add ...
What you are seeing is actually normal IMHO and as a result of the second law of thermodynamics. Heat travels from hot things to cold things.
You are under the impression heat rises. That is only true for AIR. It is NOT true for solid objects.
I assume this is house-on-slab not house-on-crawlspace or house-on-basement.
Your downstairs is like a piece of ...
You're right: the wiring colors as installed are "wrong" according to convention. The arrangement in the "after" drawing should satisfy the thermostats and operate the system correctly.
Because the wire colors are confusing it may be a good idea to re-mark them. You could get colored heat shrink tubing and use it to put a colored band on ...
One of those transformer terminals is "R" the other is "C"
If the red wire joins to the thermostat "R" wires then the beige wire is "C"
Thermostat wires should not be inside that junction box with the mains wiring, get a new box for the thermostat wires.
The problem with one pump and valves is that you can't ensure that you always get the flow you want when one of the valves is closed vs. both open. So things can be difficult to balance.
With two pumps there is more control and you should get more even heating.
Unless you have a strong reason to do it another way, I recommend you take the advice of the ...
This isn't an "answer" but a caution. I have a hydronic, in floor heating system in my house and let me tell you, there is a LOT of design and engineering to do to get this right. Even the tubing layout in the floor has design criteria (pattern should be that half way thru the loop, the tubing should parallel the first part for more even heat ...
I turned off both valves 1 & 2 figuring it isolated most things and valve 2 didn't seem to close all the way.
The steps I used to drain were:
turn supply off
turn return off
open hose bibb
open bleeder valve on register farthest away. If you don't do this, it seems to drain very slowly.
When refilling/purging, it seemed to go better/faster if that ...